A
Cottage In Donegal
Mary Doherty’s Story
Eva
Doherty Gremmert
Illustrated by
Rosie Doherty
Gremmert
A Cottage In Donegal, Mary Doherty’s Story
By Eva Doherty
Gremmert
Copyright 2011 Eva Doherty Gremmert
Smashwords
Edition
ISBN 978-1-4658-3499-7 EPUB format
This book is
available in a print edition.
ISBN 978-0-578-08012-3
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Authors
Note to Reader
I have included resources located at the end of
this ebook
that have been a help to other readers. Check out the
Irish
Herbal Medicinal Remedies, the Family Group Record for
The
Dohertys, Local Map of Carndonagh and Ballyloskey,
Map of
Inishowen and Derry and the Glossary.
To my dad.
You took me to Ireland for the first time.
I
miss you.
Contents
Acknowledgements
Foreword
Chapter 1 – Paddy
Is Gone – 1919
Chapter 2 – I Write My Story – 1929
Chapter
3 – My Birth – Spring 1847
Chapter 4 – Good Times Begin –
1851
Chapter 5 – My Childhood
Chapter 6 – Cutting
Turf
Chapter 7 – I Enjoy Walking
Chapter 8 – Making
Clothing
Chapter 9 – Thatching
Chapter 10 – Harvest –
1859
Chapter 11 – Musical Instruments
Chapter 12 – The
Decision – 14 April 1869
Chapter 13 – Our Wedding –15 May
1869
Chapter 14 – Expecting Our Baby – 1870
Chapter 15 –
Horses – 1874
Chapter 16 – The Shirt Factory – 1880
Chapter
17 – The Stations – Spring 1885
Chapter 18– The Music Left –
1890
Chapter 19 – I Become A Granny – 1894
Chapter 20 –
Anne’s Wedding – 1896
Chapter 21 – Our John Leaves –
1898
Chapter 22 – A Fair Day – 22 May 1899
Chapter 23 –
St. Mary’s School – 1900
Chapter 24 – The Railroad Came –
1901
Chapter 25 – Photographs – 1903
Chapter 26 – Eugene
Left – Summer 1905
Chapter 27 – My Father Died –
1905
Chapter 28 – A New House – 1909
Chapter 29 – The
Last Weans Leaving – 1911
Chapter 30 – Rosie’s Drawing –
1912
Chapter 31 – Kate Visiting – 1914
Chapter 32 – Nora
Drowned – 1916
Chapter 33 – Women Suffragettes – 1918
Chapter 34 – Our
Fiftieth Anniversary
Chapter 35 – Independence –1920/21
Chapter
36 – A Letter From Rosie – 1924
Chapter 37 – Final Comments
– 1932
Epilogue
Bibliography
Irish Herbal Medicinal
Remedies
Family Group Record for The Dohertys
Local Map of
Carndonagh and Ballyloskey
Map of Inishowen and
Derry
Glossary
Portraits of Paddy and Mary Doherty
taken in
1903, they hang on Eva’s front room wall.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
It would be impossible
for me to mention everyone
who has helped me with the research
for this book. I am
eternally grateful to each and every person
who has guided
me.
First I must mention my
wonderful husband Arden,
who carefully helped me prepare the
final manuscript with his
exacting proofreading. If you find
anything, you must tell
him. I mention with gratitude the time
and patience shown
me by three cousins: Josie “Paul”, Susan
from Pendleton, and
Liam “Derry Bill”. Throughout their
lives, they kept our
history. While they were still with us,
they were patient with
me as I wrote down everything they were
telling me. I miss
my visits with them and think of them fondly
still.
Cousin Roger from
Blackhorse was the first to
mention that ‘someone’ should
write the family history back
in 1976 and challenged me to do it.
Thank you Roger, it has
been a great journey. His sister Martha
still continues to
collect pictures, stories and artifacts so
that we can be
connected to our Irish history and family
heritage.
Cousins in Ireland,
Oregon, New York and California
have assisted me in gathering the
stories. Here’s to all the
Dohertys, including, John and Moira
“Saddler”, Joe “Paul”
and Mary, Mary Christina and Luke,
Rosemary “Paul”, John
and Gemma, and many others. The Book
Shop, Carndonagh
has the best collection of Irish books,
including many hard to
find ones. I appreciate their help and
the gentle suggestions of
other books I might want to look at. I
have gathered a fine
collection. My reading inspired my writing.
Irish historians and
academics have been very
encouraging, especially Sean Beattie,
historian and editor of
the Donegal Historical Society Annual.
Irish storyteller and
author, Hazel McIntyre, taught me valuable
lessons about the
creative process and the discipline of
writing.
Over the past year, I invited several close friends to
read the
manuscript before publishing. The insight I received
from each
reader has been invaluable. I am grateful for their
time,
thoughtful comments and suggestions.
The photographs are
from our many family trips to the
auld sod. My sister Rosie is a
very talented artist. Her
drawings of the cottage, the ship and
the woman spinning are
incredible. I know that you will enjoy
them.
Most of all, I want to
thank Mary herself for the legacy
that she has passed on to all
of us. Her story needed to be
told.
FOREWORD
This book, “A Cottage
in Donegal,” is a work of
historical fiction. It is the story
of Mary Doherty, my great-
grandmother, who lived her entire life
in the same townland in
County Donegal, Ireland. In my own
childhood home, the
large portraits of Mary and her husband
Paddy, taken in 1903
hung on the wall of the front room. Mary
has always
intrigued me. After I married, my father gave me the
portraits. Now they hang on the wall by my own front door.
This book, written in
memoir form, is from Mary’s
perspective. There are no
surviving letters or journals from
Mary herself. I have created
an entertaining, historically
accurate story of the life of a
typical woman in rural Ireland in
the 19th century from family
stories and the remaining
artifacts from Mary’s life. Over the
past 25 years, I have made
multiple trips each year to Ireland
for research. Many people
are intrigued with Post-Famine
Ireland. As I reviewed my
own extensive library, as well as the
collections of others, I
discovered that there were not many
books written from a
woman’s perspective. I decided to write a
book about the
time period in which Mary Doherty lived. During
her
lifetime, Ireland changed dramatically and my story reflects
those changes.
My great-grandparents
posterity now numbers over
600 people. Their legacy circles the
globe, from Ireland,
England, Wales, Scotland, Canada, and the US,
including
New York, Washington DC, Nevada, Colorado, Alaska,
California, Oregon, and Washington. Over the years, as I
have
met each of my cousins descended from Mary and
Paddy, I have come
to recognize the common values of
family, hard work, and
integrity that have been passed down
through the generations
regardless of the different cultures in
which we have lived. I
have self-published five family
history books. This is my first
work of fiction.
Eva Doherty Gremmert –
March 2011

Chapter 1
Paddy Is Gone
Wednesday, 12 November 1919
Tonight my
grief overwhelms me. I feel the need to
write everything down
so that I will not forget. For the first time in
more than
fifty years of marriage, the other side of my bed is cold
and
empty. As I reach out my hand, Paddy is not there.
He is gone since
Monday morning and now he is buried in
the churchyard down by
the chapel.
I want to call out, “Where are you, where have you gone?”
But there would be no answer.
The only noises in the
house are the muffled whispers of
my son Paul and his wife Mary
from their room above mine and
their children rustling the
bedclothes in their room across the hall
upstairs. Even the
chickens and sheep have gone to sleep. All is
silent.
Last Sunday Paddy
seemed so very tired. Typically he
was a quiet man but that
evening he was unusually quiet. After
our evening tea I helped
him change into his bedclothes and then
tucked him into the bed.
As I finished the usual preparations for
night, he turned his face toward the sound of my moving about
the
room.
Sighing almost in a
whisper, he called out my name,
“Mary, come on over here to
me.”
I stepped closer and
took his hands in mine. Although
blind, his eyes seemed to seek
my face.
“I am so very, very tired Mary, bone weary and cold.”
I tried to make light of it.
“The weather has been
that bad this last while, a good rest
is what you need.”
He got very quiet and I
barely heard him say, “I think that
very soon, I will have a
long, long rest. This evening after our tea
while you and Paul’s
Mary were cleaning up, I heard the banshee.”
I told him not to speak
thus, that it had been the wind
whipping around the corner of the
house. He again sighed, settled
down into the bed and I thought
he had fallen asleep.
As I brushed the floor,
prepared the fire coals for night and
turned down the lamp I
thought about the traditions and legends
surrounding the banshee.
She is a fairy woman, an omen of death.
She is thought to be an
ancestral messenger appointed to forewarn
members of the five
major ancient Irish families. Since all
O’Dochartaighs are
descendants of Niall of the Nine hostages,
we are eligible to
receive this warning.
The banshee’s
appearance is not always the same. Usually
she appears as an
ugly, frightening hag, but she has been known to
appear as a
stunningly beautiful woman of any age. The hag can
also appear
as a washer-woman, seen washing the blood stained
clothes of
those who are about to die. She will wail around a house
if
someone in the house is about to die. This is what Paddy said
that
he heard. I dismissed my growing fear as nonsense and made
ready
for bed.
As I carefully climbed
into our bed, he startled me when
he spoke.
“I want you to know
that I have had a good life, Mary.
You have been a good wife to
me for all these many years.”
Never before had I heard such talk from my husband. Then
I
snuggled down into the place that had been mine since the night of
our marriage.
I patted his cheek and said,
“Aye Paddy, we have
had a good life together. Good night
to ye.”
Those were the last
word we spoke to one another. When I
awoke in the morning, he
was already cold. I had missed his
passing. I sat on the edge
of the bed, with my back to him, silent
tears streaming down my
face and falling onto the bedclothes. I had
yet to call out to
Paul and Mary, to give them the sad news.
I took these few
moments for my own, alone in my grief,
the loneliness
overwhelming me. I knew that as soon as it was
known the
busy-ness that surrounds death would start.
Paddy and I had lived
through so much together. I had
birthed our twelve children and
we had buried two of them as
weans. We watched over and loved
the remaining ten and mourned
them in turn as they each left our
home and hearth to travel to
America. We rejoiced with the two
who returned to rear their
families near and felt heartache for
the rest of our grandchildren
who would never know our voices.
I waited until the
tears stopped, and taking a deep breath,
I stood. Turning to
look back, I noticed that he looked at peace.
Tenderly I kissed
his brow, smoothed the bedclothes around him
and went to find my
son Paul.
Within a few hours,
Mary Ann McGuinness, the handy-
woman from over the road came to
help Mary and me wash his
body and shave his face. Paul moved
the kitchen table into the
upper room and placed chairs around
the house. With Paddy
dressed in his best clothes, he was laid
out on the table. The mirrors
had been covered and the clock
stopped indicating the time of
death. The door to the cottage
was opened which signaled to the
neighbours that all had been
made ready.
The wake was on for
Monday and Tuesday with the funeral
on Wednesday. During that
time the coffin was prepared.
Friends and relations kept coming
to the house at all hours and
we welcomed them as was customary, with tay and bread, pipe
tobaccy
and poitin.
Paul’s Mary took care
of all the arrangements. My job
was to sit in the upper room
next to Paddy and accept the kind
words of those who arrived.
Since our bedroom was just next to
the upper room where Paddy was
laid out, Mary would send me
|upstairs to the weans room to have
a wee rest when I appeared
tired.
Over the two days of
the wake my rosary was never in its
usual place hanging on the
wall next to the St. Brigid’s cross. It
was to be found
either in my hands or in someone else’s, and
every so often one
of the family would lead us all in a decade of
the rosary.
Sometimes my mind
wanders when I say the rosary. I
mind when I was wee, Father
William McCafferty, our Parish
Priest, scolding me and telling me
that I should be prayerfully
meditating upon the mysteries of
faith.
It was before my First
Communion, and I was kneeling in
the chapel next to Mammy. I
remember him standing there so
tall and imposing, in his long
black robe, his stern face turned
toward me, shaking his finger
rhythmically as he spoke,
“Traditionally,
reciting the Rosary means praying the full
five decades while
meditating on a particular mystery of faith.
These mysteries are
organised into three groups that are tied to
certain days of the
week. The “Joyful Mysteries” are recited on
Mondays and
Saturdays, the “Sorrowful Mysteries” are recited on
Tuesdays
and Fridays, the “Glorious Mysteries” are recited on
Wednesdays
and Sundays. What day is it wee Mary?”
I was so overcome that
I could not mind the day. No
answer came. Of course it was
Sunday, that is the day we went to
the chapel for Mass, but I
could not speak. I was so shy and in
awe of the Priest.
“See that you
remember, wee Mary, see that you remember,”
he said, as he
continued to the front of the chapel and into his
chamber to
prepare for the celebration of the Mass.
The set pattern of the Rosary has always been a comfort
to me,
especially “The Ave Maria” or “Hail Mary” prayer as it
reminds me of the Blessed Virgin, Our Lady. Although when
formally reciting the Rosary we say the prayers in Latin, when I
am on my own, I pray in English.
Hail Mary, full of grace,
the Lord is with thee;
blessed are you among women, and
blessed is the fruit of thy womb.
Holy Mary, Mother of God,
pray for us sinners now and
at the hour of our death.
Normally I prefer the
“Joyful Mysteries”, even if it is not
the right day. But
during the wake, I found comfort in the
“Sorrowful Mysteries.”
I could not see any joy in front of me at all.
It seemed I was saying
the same things to everyone who
came to the wake,
“Yes, he will be missed.”
“Oh, he did have a good long life.”
“Other than the blindness, he was very healthy.”
“What a blessing that
he passed so quickly and did not
suffer.”
These are the very same
words that I had said myself to
others before, in other homes, at
other wakes, only this time it
was my Paddy who was gone. My
Paddy who would not be there
that evening to discuss who had been
at the corpse-house. My
Paddy who would not be there to share in
the gossip of the
neighbourhood. The words might have been the
same, but the
day was so different. I found meself wanting to
turn to him and
share a story or a secret smile. I wondered if I
would ever laugh
again.
Our Curate, Father
Daniel Reid, came up on Monday
evening to pay his respects. He
is a kind man who has worked in
the parish for some time now. He probably will become Parish
Priest
some day. He mentioned to Paul that the Parish Priest
would come
up to the house the next evening to go over all the
arrangements
for the funeral.
Our Parish Priest
Father Philip O’Doherty did come up on
Tuesday evening. He
arrived with great pomp and ceremony.
There is such a spirit
about him that he seemed to fill the entire
space of our upper
room.
“The remains,” he
said, “should be prepared to leave the
house by half ten. The
pall-bearers will carry the coffin down
Ballyloskey Road to the
chapel with the funeral following behind.
The mass will begin
about 11 o’clock with the burial just afterward
in the
graveyard. Does that sound all right to ye”?
I wanted to shout that
there was nothing all right about any
of this, but I just nodded
while Paul shook his hand and thanked
him for coming. Many times
in the past, I have noticed the grieving
widows in the front of
the chapel, flanked by their sons.
I never understood
until now how much you can lean on the
strength of your children
when you do not feel like you can stand on
your own.
Everyone said the
funeral mass was beautiful. I agreed with
them, of course,
although I do not seem to mind any details from the
mass. The
weather was so very cold and blustery as we walked
down to the
chapel, the rain soaking my hat and coat.
The chapel was already
filled with people and I do
remember the smell of incense as we
entered the chapel doors
following the coffin. As was custom, I
stopped at the Holy Water
receptacle just inside the doors.
Leaning my left hand on the cold
stone wall for strength, and
dipping my finger in the water, I made
the sign of the cross with
my right hand. The temperature of the
water, normally a shock to
my hand and head, barely registered.
I walked numbly up the
aisle toward the altar rail.
They set Paddy down at
the front of the chapel and the
Priest directed me to sit in the
front pew to the left. I do not mind
ever sitting so close to
the altar before. The pews at the front of
the chapel with the doors on the sides were reserved for the
benefactors who had paid money to the church.
We always sat at the
back, the women on the left side,
the men on the right. I know
that during the mass, my son Paul
was on one side of me and my
brother-in-law Willie Marley on
the other. I do mind sitting
there at the front of the church thinking
that it had been many
long years since I had Paul by my side for
mass.
The last time was just
after his First Communion. Paul
still sat with the girls and me
until one Sunday, Paddy’s brother,
Big Shan, stopped in the
aisle just beside us, leaning across me,
he whispered to Paul, “I
see that you are still sitting with the
women.”
He then walked up a few
rows, genuflected and went into
his seat on the right. I remember
that Paul hunched himself
forward, grabbed his hat, and without
looking me in the eye,
quickly joined his uncle on the other
side. That was the last time
Paul was by my side until during
Paddy’s mass.
It was about a year
later in the spring, after many a Sunday
of looking longingly
across the chapel at his older brother Paul,
Eugene left me. He
joined the men on the right side, even though
he was still a
couple of years shy of his First Communion.
From the time of my
First Communion so long ago, I
have always enjoyed looking
towards the front of our chapel
which was built in 1826. But
during Paddy’s mass, I wanted to
look everywhere else except at
the pine box set on the supports in
the middle of the chapel.
The beautiful ornately
carved wood that made up our altar
and sacristy always commands
my attention. I think that it is the
perfect combination of
ornate decoration that inspires worship
and functional simplicity
of design that inspires humility. That
lovely altar was the
centerpiece of our worship. The white linen
cloth covering,
which symbolizes purity of thought and action,
was the perfect
backdrop for the Priest to offer up the mystery of
the Mass.
During Paddy’s Mass, my mind wandered. I tried to
imagine what
it had been like before our chapel was built, during
the time a
Priest could be killed for celebrating Mass. Mammy
told me that
during the Penal times, the people would gather at
The Mass Rock in the Ancient Oak Grove, Carndonagh
the
Mass Rocks. These were local, specifically appointed places,
usually in a wood or on a secluded remote hill, where the rock
would become the altar.
People would gather for
hours before the Priest was set to
arrive. Mammy said that folks
would always walk purposefully
but not quickly enough to appear
anxious. Even the weans knew
not to disclose where and when the
Mass was to be said. It was
important not to travel in too large
a group. It took much planning
and forethought to bring our
spiritual leaders to the people during
that time. Lookouts were
appointed to watch for danger and give
a warning so everyone
could flee if necessary. For most Catholics,
it required
sacrifice and thus strengthened our faith.
Under these extreme conditions, people were lucky if they
were
able to take communion every month or so, whereas we are
able to
attend Mass now as often as we desire. We are very
blessed.
The Mass Rock that
Mammy showed me is on the other
side of Carndonagh, past the St.
Patrick’s cross, and on towards
Ballyliffin a short distance.
Surrounded by an old oak forest, it is
completely secluded.
Mammy said that over 300 people could
gather there for the
celebration of the Mass and the British
soldiers never did
discover them. Today, it is so peaceful and
quiet there in the
forest that it is hard to imagine those difficult
times long ago.
We were taught from the
time we were wee to appreciate
and revere our chapel because we
were truly blessed to have the
freedom to gather and worship in
the manner we believe is right.
In our chapel, the
twelve stained glass windows were
imported from Italy, but the
fourteen Stations of the Cross were
hand carved locally. I knew
without looking that there were
twenty-five rows of pews on each
side of the chapel as well as
seven rows of pews up in the
balcony. I had counted them many
times before.
During Paddy’s Mass,
I could not make myself look
around at those who were attending,
but I knew that if I did turn
my head, I would see our families
and loved ones, our friends and
our neighbours. Everyone who
cared for us was there, it should
have been a comfort, yet I felt
so alone without my Paddy.
I looked ahead at the
statue on the right of the altar. It is
Our Lady with her hands
outstretched in love. The statue to the
left of the altar is St.
Joseph holding the Christ Child. The lamps
hanging from the
ceiling had all their candles lit and the gold door
to the Holy
of Holies behind the altar glinted in the flickering
candle
light.
Everything is always so
clean and tidy, and nothing is
ever out of place in the chapel.
The three steps leading up to the
altar from behind the altar
rail seemed to draw my thoughts
heavenward and, for a moment, I
felt as if I knew that Paddy was
up there with the angels, looking down on all of us gathered for
his
Funeral Mass. I knew that he was pleased that he could see
again,
since the blindness had plagued him for so long.
The next memory I have
is of the men lowering him into
the ground and removing the ropes
from under his casket. Then,
as was our tradition, people filed
past me as I stood by his grave,
grasping my hands as they told
me how sorry they were for my
loss. I kept looking out past the
chapel to the Derry Road and
wished that I could let it take me
anywhere but where I was at
that moment.
I do not mind how I had
gotten from the chapel out into
the graveyard. Afterward, up at
the house, I was worried about
this gap in my memory and confided
this to my sister Maggie.
She assured me that sometimes when we
have a great shock, we
do not always mind the details. She said
that it might come back
to me later after some time has passed
and her words were a great
comfort to me.
And so I lie here
tonight remembering the many nights
gone by. Those first nights
of our passion awakening, slumber
forgotten as we bonded our
souls together. Later there were
nights when, after caring for
one of the children, I would quietly
creep into the warmth next
to him trying not to awaken him.
At the end of other
nights I would awaken to the first light
of dawn and feel his
warmth still lingering on the bedclothes after
he had left to
tend some of the livestock. But tonight as the tears
roll down
my cheeks onto my pillow, I realise that there will never
again
be his warmth in our bed.
As the days go by, I
will probably let the grandchildren
take turns sleeping with
Granny. It will be a treat for them. But
for now, this night, I
will remember as I lie here alone and await
the dawn.

Chapter 2
I Write My Story
September 1929
I have decided that I will write the story my life.
Last week as I was
cleaning out my knitting basket, I
found the papers that I had
written on at the time of Paddy’s death,
folded up in the
bottom. Reading what I had written brought back
the memories all
fresh in my mind.
That was such a
difficult time for me; almost 10 years have
passed and time does
soften the pain somehow. I got to thinking
that perhaps some of
my children or grandchildren will be interested
in my story after
I am gone. I am especially thinking about the
weans out in
Oregon whom I have never met.
Sitting here by the
light of the fire, as I ponder my life of
more than 80 years, my
mind is full of so many memories. Some
of them bring a smile to
my face and others bring a tear to my eye.
I canna possibly
write about everything that happened in my life,
but I do want to
chronicle the highlights. I only hope that I can get
it all down
before it is my time to go.
So this morning at
breakfast, I asked to go to town with
Paul. When he went for the
messages, I purchased a wee blank
book from Doherty’s, the
newsagents. It is one of those that the
children use at school and has a hard black cover on the outside
with lined paper inside.
Mrs. Doherty at the
shop assumed that the book was for
one of Paul’s younger boys:
John, Vincey or Harry. I could not
tell her the truth and so I
just agreed with her. I am not sure why,
but I have the book
hidden along with a pen in my knitting basket
next to the fire.
I
have not told anyone of my project. As I sit here remembering
the
days long gone, and when no one is about, I will write
down my
memories.
Mary Doherty in 1903

Chapter 3
My Birth
Spring 1847
Iwas born in the
middle of the Great Hunger. At
the time, no one knew what a
defining time the years of 1846-
1848 would be to the people of
Ireland. It was not until years
afterward that this particular
famine period was called The Famine
or The Great Hunger.
Folks where I was born
knew that the potato crop had failed
again, but they pulled
together and worked hard, so it was not as
great a tragedy to us
as it was to those in other parts of Ireland. Just
north of our
town, there is a special thatched cottage alongside the
Malin
road called the Brachán House. Brachán is cooked corn
gruel.
In Ireland, corn is a general term for grains and cereal crops,
typically oats. From 1846 to 1849 there was a very large pot of
meal cooked everyday at the Brachán House to feed anyone who
had a need. Maize or Indian Corn, imported from America, was
difficult to grind in our local mills. It did not gain
popularity as
cattle feedstuff until later.
The meal was supplied
by the Clonmany and Donagh
Relief Committee. The government had
organised these local
relief committees in an effort to encourage local responsibility in
relieving those in need. People would walk for miles, if they
were
destitute, to receive a ladle full of gruel in their cup.
The meal was
portioned out based on the number of people in each
house. The
daily ration consisted either of one pound of meal
(ground flour or
grain) or one quart of soup thickened with a
portion of meal.
Children below the age of nine were allotted
half rations.
The townland of
Ballyloskey where I was born is a mile
outside the town of Carn.
Officially on the map, the town is listed
as Carndonagh, but
everyone calls it Carn. Located in the middle of
the Inishowen
Peninsula in our lovely county of Donegal, Carn is
the area’s
market town.
Our road, the
Ballyloskey Road, begins just down on the
Derry Road a little
ways off from the Workhouse. Ballyloskey
means “townland of
fire.” It probably was so named because of the
ancient lime
kilns in Upper Ballyloskey. The smoke from the kilns
could be
seen for miles and did look as if the townland was on fire.
The road winds up into
the rolling Donegal hills and ends in
the bog fields of the area
called Upper Ballyloskey. Our house was
about half way up, where
the road takes a sharp turn to the right past
our front door and
around the back of the house.
On a clear day, I could
sit on our front door step and, turning
my head from the left to
right, see past Slieve Snacht (the Snowy
Mountain) all the way to
Glentogher, straight out Trawbreaga Bay
to the Isle of Doagh and
on to Knockamany Bends. Over to the
right was just a bit of a
view of Culdaff Bay. Some days though, if
the weather was bad, I
could barely see Fanny Canny’s field in front
of the house.
My father always said
that my birth occurred during the
lambing of 1847. It had been
seven years since Mammy had
carried a child to term. Out in the
field behind our house, while
assisting the ewes birthing the
lambs, he was worried that whole
day and night as Mammy was
birthin’ me in the cottage.
He remembered that it was bitter cold and he was not only
worried
about losing some ewes and lambs that night, but he was
worried
about losing Mammy and me. Granny Kate was helping,
along with
my two aunties and the handy-woman, Margaret
Callahan.
Everyone was relieved
when my puny cry broke the silence
of the dawn. They say that I
was scrawny but strong. I guess that
describes me still. As a
wean, my hair was very light, almost
colourless and as I grew
older, it darkened into a heathery brown
colour.
Every summer my hair
would lighten with the sun and then
be darker for the winter. My
father said that my eyes never changed
colour from the first time
I looked up at him. He often told me that
in them he saw the
colour of a summer sky.
As is traditional, they
named me Mary after my father’s
mammy, Granny Mary. She was
Mary married to Hugh Doherty.
No one minds her maiden name
anymore. Her husband was Hugh
and when they married she was
called Mary Hudie.
Because practically
everyone around here is Doherty or
McLaughlin, with the way of
Irish nicknames, we are known as the
Hudies. I am wee Mary Hudie
although my proper name is Mary
Doherty. Even after my marriage
to Big Paddy Newman, whose
proper name is Patrick Doherty, I was
still called wee Mary Hudie.
It can be confusing as
there are no set rules to nicknames.
Although we are Dohertys,
those in our house are known as the
Hudies, except my father. He
is known as John Shoemaker because
he is the shoemaker. Johnny
Tailor lives up the hill and John Cloth
is over the fields. You
can guess what they do for work.
Nicknames can also be
given for a physical feature or for
where you live. You can have
known someone your whole life and
unless you attend their wedding
or the baptism of their child or even
their funeral, you may
never know their proper surname.
My father came from
down by Quigley’s Point. It is about
ten miles from where I
was born. He had come up to Carn
on a Fair Day and had seen my mother. He often told us weans that
he could never forget her, so he had to marry her. We would all
laugh at the thought of our parents falling in love.
It is customary for the
sons to retain the lease on the land,
but Mammy was the last one
of her house left at home. Her older
brother and sister had
already left home for Boston. So after my
parents were married,
my granda asked my father to take over his
lease. Granda decided
that my parents would raise their family in
my mammy’s
homeplace.
Eventually, there were
eight of us reared in the house. Our
Paddy was born first. I
was seven years younger. Hugh was born
the year I started
school. Philip and Sadie came along within a few
years of Hugh.
John and Maggie came along when I was a
young woman. I was
eighteen by the time Wee Patrick arrived.
He was born a few
years after my older brother Paddy died out in
America and so the
new baby was named after him, to honour him,
as was customary.
A few others were born
to Mammy in between all of us,
but they did not live long. Some
other babies were expected for a
while, but they never were born.
Although she would stop and say
the rosary, she never would talk
about those white crosses marking
the small graves outside the
walls of the graveyard. The unbaptised
babies could not be
buried in consecrated ground.
Out in Straths, on the
way to Ballyliffin, in the townland of
Carndoagh, there is a
separate burial ground for unbaptised weans,
but at our chapel,
they are buried outside the walls.
I did not understand
Mammy’s silence until I too had to
stand by a grave and watch
the shovelfuls of dirt fall on a small
blanket covered body and
know that never again would I see a smile
light up the face of my
beloved baby. My face stoic, and outwardly
calm, my eyes
brimming with unshed tears, I then understood my
mother’s pain.
Through a child’s
eyes, however, I had not understood the
world of the adults that
surrounded me.
As a child, my world
was the fields and lanes, the ditches
and the hedges that began
just at the end of our garden. My
earliest recollection is chasing butterflies across the road and
into
Canny’s field. I must have been about four or five years
old.
I had finished all my
chores, the bedclothes had been
tidied, the potatoes and turnips
scrubbed for the pot, the cow was
milked.
Finally Mammy said, “Go
for a wee walk, head on up to
McLaughlin’s and see if your
friends are out. Enjoy yourself.”
The McLaughlin girls
that lived at the top of the brae,
across from the Newmans, were
my best friends. Sicily and
Elizabeth were both older than me,
with Kate a year younger.
When permitted, the four of us were
always in each others’
company.
I pulled on a jumper
and scampered out the door into the
spring sunshine. Barely
warm, the sun had chased away the chill.
There was no bitter
wind that usually was so common. The five
minute walk up to
McLaughlin’s passed pleasantly and in no time
I was down their
street and at their front door. The half door was
open, but when
I peered in, there was no one at home. I called out
to my
friends, but there was no answer. Disappointed, I began
trudging
the long walk back home. The day seemed suddenly
dreary, as I no
longer felt the light-hearted anticipation of seeing
my friends.
Halfway down the hill,
I heard birds chirping cheerfully
from behind the ditch.
Although their song seemed to mock my
mood, it drew me towards
them. I looked around and saw no one
so I cautiously ventured
forth.
Crossing the road, I
saw the open gate and peered around
the bushes into the field.
Then I saw the butterfly. Playfully
dancing in the air, it
teased me to follow. I could not resist. My
spirits lifted, we
danced the age old dance of children and nature.
I do not know
how long I played or when Mammy called me in,
but the memory of
that moment in time is strong.
And in those dark
moments that come to each of us over
a lifetime, when the way is
hard and there is no apparent joy to be
seen, sometimes, if I let
meself, I can still see the butterfly and
suddenly I am back again, four years old, flitting around Canny’s
field laughing with the butterflies.
I enjoyed working with
Mammy. She often told me how
much she counted on me as we worked
side by side. Having reared
my own children, I now know how much
help I actually was, but at
the time, all I knew was that she
counted on me.
From the time I can
remember, it was my job first thing in
the morning to fill up the
turf bin next to the fire. I would open the
heavy door to the
outside and walk along the footpath to the turf
shed. As I grew
older the path seemed to grow shorter, but as a
young child, it
was a great journey.
Mammy and my father
would laugh between themselves
as I solemnly fulfilled my duty.
I knew, as they had often told me,
that the entire house would be
cold if I neglected to bring in the
turf each morning. It was
miraculous to me every morning that,
by carefully placing a
couple pieces of turf and blowing a few
breaths on the ashes from
last night’s fire, Mammy would quickly
have the warm earthy
smell wafting through the room as the
smoke curled up the
chimney. I often think of her still as I re-light
the fire each
morning at my own hearth.
Every few days, I was
allowed to scrape out the ashes that
had fallen below the grate
on the hearth and take them out back to
the ash pile. This, too,
was an important job because the ash was
essential to soap-making
and my father would plow it into certain
fields that were not
producing as well as he would like.
Mammy and I prepared
the breakfast table after the fire was
started. Many a morning,
the great pot of oatmeal was re- warmed
over the fire. Eaten
with buttermilk from our milk cow, it was a
grand meal, or so
said my father. And we believed him. If there
was no oatmeal,
we would have spuds with the buttermilk.
Our Paddy and my father
would leave to work in the fields
after breakfast. For many
years it was a great mystery to me
what they did all day long.
My duties kept me in the house
with Mammy while Paddy headed out
each day doing mens’
work. He would fall into his bed after
his tea, exhausted. It
seemed like a great adventure. I longed to join them in that
adventure.
After breakfast, Mammy
would turn her thoughts to the
dinner. There were always
potatoes; late summer and autumn
we had carrots or turnips.
Mammy would make a scone with her
flour and sometimes there were
a few eggs if the hens were laying.
It was simple fare, but we
were never hungry and there always
seemed to be enough. My
parents worked hard to provide for our
family. Some families did
not weather the farming ups and downs
as well as we did.
Although there are no
stories of starvation in our house,
the story is told locally of
seven people lying dead along
Ballyloskey Road during the Great
Hunger, with green stains
circling their emaciated mouths. It is
said that they were too
proud to stand in line at the Brachán
House with a cup in their
outstretched hand. Instead, they had
tried to eat grass to stave off
their hunger.

Chapter 4
Good Times Begin
Autumn 1851
I do not recall
my earliest memory of my husband
Paddy Newman. It seems that he
has always been in my life. He
was one of “the Newmans”, the
family that lived at the top of the
brae, just opposite the
McLaughlins. They were Dohertys, but
like us they were always
called by their nickname. They had six
of a family: Big Shan was
the eldest, followed by the four girls,
Kate, Rosie, Mary and
Nellie. Paddy was the last. Nine years older
than me, it seems
that Paddy was always part of my life, when I
was an infant, a
toddler and later a schoolgirl.
The thing that I mind
most about him when I was young is t
hat he was my brother Paddy’s
best friend. Typical young boys,
the two Paddys were always
teasing me, or poking me just to get
me riled up. I would run
from them screaming, and then later sneak
up through the fields
to Newman’s just to see what was on up there.
To me, life was more
exciting around the two boys. There
was always a crinkle of a
smile about Paddy Newman’s face when
he would look at me. It
was as if he knew a secret that I did not
know. Later he told me
that he had watched and waited
for me to grow up. I do not know about that; it would be another
story.
But I do mind a time
before I started school. I was probably
four years old or
somewhere close to it. I was out at the edge of the
field
watching the men help my father turn the hay. The pitch forks
were
thrust into the dried hay and although the men were sweating,
it
seemed as if the hay effortlessly floated into the air and turned
over onto itself to dry the other side. They were laughing and
talking as men do, hardly noticing the work they were doing.
I remember watching
Paddy standing in the heat of the
summer sun. He would have only
been about thirteen years old,
although he was already tall.
They were calling him Big Paddy
even then. I think that he grew
to be over six feet tall. I do not
know how tall for sure, for
we never measured him. Even in his
stooped old age he would
tower over most men. He had big strong
shoulders and thick
strong arms.
I suppose that day of
haying was the first time I especially
noticed Big Paddy Newman.
I remember that he
remarked that it was a good harvest and
he hoped that the rains
would not come too soon to spoil it. He
also said that he was
grateful for such good weather. I remember
feeling excitement
and hope from the men. It was palpable. It
must be remembered
that there had not been that feeling in my
short lifetime, for I
was born in the middle of the Great Hunger.
That harvest of
1851was anticipated as being the first good crop in
many years.
There was no fear of famine that summer. That lack
of fear left
a void in our lives and hope began to trickle in to fill it.
Our lives were spent so
close to the land and the seasons
that it is difficult to explain
the thoughts and fears of the local
people of that time to
someone who did not experience it.
Although the famine times had
not been as tragic in our area
as in other parts of Ireland, we
had heard the stories from the
travelling people and the clergy.
The horrors of West Donegal and Galway were told and
re-told over
the ditches and doorways. The fear of the Great
Hunger coming
again hung over us all. Every spring planting
brought with it
the worry of whether there would be a harvest.
Even when the
green shoots pushed through the soil and began
to leaf, there was
the fear of the blight.
For years after, the
men would hesitate to turn the praties
at the beginning of the
harvest, in case they would again discover
the black mush instead
of firm brown potatoes. They remembered
how it seemed as if the
plants had withered and the praties
dissolved before their very
eyes. The blight which began in 1846
had taken everyone by
surprise. At first the plants looked strong
and healthy, but as
that summer went on a strange foul vapour
arose from the fields.
No one had ever smelt it before but it
became a well known
feature during those years. The smell
seemed to emanate from the
decaying stalks, filling the air
with the malignant odour. No
one who had smelt the horrible
stench ever forgot.
As the seasons passed
and years turned by with crops not
failing and blight not coming,
we all seemed to release the
collective breath that we had been
holding. Some playfulness
re- entered our lives as we began to
move some of the dreariness
aside.
New ideas about animal
husbandry were being discussed
among the men. The turnip root
had been introduced as a source
of winter feedstuff. This was
causing the cattle trade to increase.
It was now possible to
select and breed cattle, keeping them from
year to year, instead
of killing them off annually. Indian corn was
promoted as being
good fodder for cattle and the local mills were
able to supply
the farmers with more variety in feedstuffs. I heard
the older
ones remark that times were going to be different. It was
spoken
in such a hopeful way.
We children did not
know any different, but with the faith
that children have in
their parents’ reassuring words, we knew
that the hard times
were now past and the rainbow was around
the corner. Life was precious and fragile and our time was spent
working and preparing to sustain that life.
It was expected that
once you reached the age of twelve
that formal school was
finished and you worked the land.
Everyone keenly felt the
responsibility of working to support the
family. It was
difficult for families to get the money together to
pay the rent
to the landlord and feed everyone.
Some small-holding
farmers had to send their children
and teenagers to the hiring
fairs to be hired out. The hiring fairs
had developed from the
need for farmer and labourer to find a
common place to meet and
strike a bargain for the work time period
and wages. It became
common for specific fair days to be called
hiring fairs.
These hiring fairs were
usually held twice a year, in May
and November, although some
towns had hiring fairs all on their
own not connected to the
ordinary fair day. The main hiring fairs
in our area were held
in the Diamond in Derry City and
Letterkenny, but there were some
children hired out from our
Carn Fair. The farmer would strike a
bargain with the father and
then children would leave with the
farmer for six months or a year,
whatever was the agreed term.
They would be fed and have shelter
in the barn and were expected
to work fourteen to sixteen hours a
day. The full work day was
supposed to be 13 hours with two or
three one-hour breaks.
That was not always the
norm. If a worker left before the
term was up, they forfeited
whatever wages had been earned. A
child’s reputation would be
tarnished and other farmers would hear
about his attitude and he
would not be given another term. Times
were tough and money was
scarce, so most workers stayed for the
full term no matter what
the conditions were.
Some bigger towns
started having a runaway hiring fair
held the day after the usual
hiring fair. Here escapees were allowed
a chance to find a
second master for the term.
The first farm season
from May to November would be
spent mostly outdoors. In addition
to helping with the harvest
and picking potatoes, children would
be expected to tend the
livestock, milk the cows in the morning and evening, churn butter
and gather eggs. Meadowlands were cleared of stones and other
obstructions that might hinder reaping and fences were repaired
to
keep wandering animals out. The turf would be brought from
the
bog and stored in the turf shed. Roof repair and thatching
would
be completed.
The second farming
season from November to May would
be spent repairing and
preparing. Land needed for planting would
be drained and
ploughed, ditches and drains were cleared, sloughs
were drained,
walls rebuilt and boundary hedges repaired. Girls
would be
taught to twist hay or straw into ropes and help with the
washing
and cooking.
Workers would be
expected to work six days a week and
sometimes most of the
seventh. In the spring and summer the
day would start around six
in the morning and go until dusk,
which could be 17 hours later.
More workers were taken for the
first term than the second
because of the heavy summer workload.
At the end of each
term, the father would travel to the farm
to collect his children
and receive the wages from the farmer.
The money was used to pay
the family obligations, such as tithes
to the established church
until 1839, and the ever oppressive land
rent. Some farmers
would make deductions from the wages for
clothes, boots, pocket
money or broken articles. Sometimes, if the
child was unlucky
and the farmer kept a careful record, the wages
would be whittled
away on frivolity, so that at the end of the term
there was not
much money to be handed over to the father.
Some people thought
that hired workers were short-changed,
but they did get their
meals and board included as part of the hiring
arrangement. The
workers had the security of a contract and were
not subject to
layoffs and interruptions. There was a wide variation
in living
conditions. Some lived in deplorable conditions and others
lived
on par with their employers.
In winter things were particularly harsh. Out buildings, like
the
barns, would be freezing with icicles around the walls and wind
whistling through the rafters above. Sometimes the weans beds
were nothing more than a blanket thrown over some straw on the
floor. It was a hard life. Lucky for us none of our people had
to be
hired out. Some of the young people used this time of
hiring to
learn skills that were sound preparation for travelling
to Scotland as
a young adult when they would hire out for
seasonal agricultural
work across the sea.
My next specific memory
of Paddy might have been that
same summer or it could have been
the one following. I do not
know which year it was, but school
was finished for the boys and
they were now out working with the
men. Kate McLaughlin and I
were sitting just inside the garden
next to the stone wall, playing in
the dirt, making little houses
of stones. We were pretending and
fantasising as young girls do.
One little stone was me and another
was my husband. A group of
stones were all my children. Kate
had her family of stones
around her. Other stones were the house,
the byre and the barn.
I had my whole life played out in front of
me with my wee stone
garden.
Paddy jumped himself up
onto the stone wall and laughed
out loud. He said that although
I was wee, my biggest strength was
that I had everything
organised into its proper place. I knew how
everything would
work out and what everyone would do and how
it would all be.
His words did not sound like a compliment to me.
I stood up and yelled
at him, “I am going to marry you
Big Paddy Newman, just you
wait and see. This is you. You are
this stone.”
He laughed at me and
jumped off the wall into the garden.
My brother Paddy, who of
course was sitting right next to Big
Paddy, since they were
inseparable, jumped down into the middle
of my stone world and
kicked it all apart. I screamed and ran into
the house, to
receive some comfort from Mammy. I wanted to
discuss the
injustice of older brothers, I wanted
retribution, I wanted…., well, I wanted our Paddy to be in trouble.
As I was running to the
house, I did hear Big Paddy scolding
our Paddy.
“Paddy ye should not
torture her like that. What has she
done to deserve that? She is
just a wee girl and was not hurting
anyone with her dreams and
her plans.”
He then told our Paddy
that he was just being cruel. Big
Paddy had defended me even to
my own brother, and that meant
something to me.

Chapter 5
My Childhood
I mind the time
I finally was allowed to go with the
boys into the fields. I had
just made my First Communion earlier
that spring. It was hay
time. The famine was over and emigration
had hit our community
hard. There were no labourers to hire. The
young ones had left
their own hearths and homes to find work in
England, America or
Australia.
Daddy and Mammy had a
huge row. Paddy, Hugh and I
were quiet in our trundle bed, just
below them on the floor,
pretending to be asleep.
Mammy said, “Mr.
Doherty, ‘tis not right for our Mary to
have to go out into the
fields. She is too young. The work will be
too hard for her and
then she will be in your way and you will be
cross with her.”
My father was silent
for a few moments. I thought that he
had fallen asleep.
Finally he just said,
“Kate, ye can get along well enough
without her for one day, I
need the wean.”
I thought of my friends
from school, most of the other
children my age, both boys and
girls, had already experienced
that great excitement of heading
out to work with their fathers.