Buying a Diamond
Your Essential Guide
By Janelle Wilson BDes UNSW
Published by Janelle Wilson at Smashwords
Copyright 2010 Janelle Wilson
Smashwords Edition, License Notes
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National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry
Author: Wilson, Janelle.
Title: Buying a diamond [electronic resource] : your essential guide / written and illustrated by Janelle Wilson edited by KristynMirelle Ohandja.
Edition: 1st ed.
ISBN: 978-0-9808020-1-6 (ebook)
Subjects: Diamonds.
Other Authors/Contributors:Ohandja, Kristyn Mirelle.
Dewey Number: 553.82
Acknowledgments
Many thanks to Giulians Jewellers and Mondial Neuman Jewellers.
for beautiful diamond jewellery photographs.
Thank you to Kristyn Ohandja for editing.
Contents
Introduction
White Diamonds
Certification
Carat weight
Colour
Clarity
Cut
Fluorescence
Antique Diamonds
The difference between a Certificate and a Valuation
'Laser-Drilled' and 'Fracture-Filled' Diamonds
HPHT Diamonds
Cultured Diamonds
Diamond Irradiation
Coated Diamonds
How do I know the Certificate matches the Diamond I am being shown?
Small Diamonds
Diamond Hardness and Durability
Jewellery Quality
Setting Styles
From which Metal is it made?
Keeping your Diamonds clean
Natural Pink Diamonds
Pink Diamond Grading
Blue Diamonds
Yellow Diamonds
Champagne Diamonds
Champagne Diamonds
Other Coloured Diamonds
Introduction
For the past fifteen years I have worked in the jewellery industry and have heard many different questions about diamonds. In this guide I provide answers to these questions. I aim to give you a clear understanding of these wonderful gems. I also wish to give you enough knowledge so that with many little technicalities out of the way, you can truly enjoy your diamond shopping.
Illustration
1: White Diamond Rings.
Courtesy of Giulians
Jewellers. www.giulians.com
White Diamonds
Buying a diamond can be a very enjoyable and also possibly confusing experience with the many choices you have available. My aim here is to help you become familiar with the terminology describing diamonds and to give you useful information to assist your decision making.
The most widely available, and the most popular type of diamond is the white diamond.
A detailed grading system has evolved over the years as a guideline for diamond buyers. White diamonds are classified by weight in carats (ct), colour, clarity, and cut. These are often referred to as the 4 "c"s, or 5 "c"s if certification is added.
Illustration 2: A design for diamond earrings
Certification
Diamonds above a certain weight, often around 0.50 carat (ct) are issued with a certificate from a grading laboratory. I have seen some white diamonds of only 0.20ct or 0.30ct with certificates, however this isn't currently common in the marketplace. It takes time and costs money to certify a diamond, as careful observation, analysis and documentation are involved, so it often becomes uneconomical to certify particularly small diamonds.
The two most highly regarded diamond grading laboratories in the world are the GIA (The Gemological Institute of America ) and the HRD the (High Council of 'Hoge Raad Voor Diamant' Antwerp). If you are buying jewellery containing many small diamonds, these diamonds are not individually certified. The best assurance of the quality here is to purchase from a reputable jeweller who will verify the colour and clarity of the smaller diamonds in the jewellery that you purchase from them.
Illustration
3: White Diamond Jewellery.
Courtesy of Giulians
Jewellers. www.giulians.com
Diamond weight is measured in carats. One carat is one fifth of a gram. People often think of a carat being a particular size. The size in fact, can vary according to the proportion of the cut. From the top view, a diamond that is a very deep cut will appear smaller than one that is a very flat cut. A range of approximate diamond sizes is pictured in the diamond chart provided in illustration 11.
Illustration
4: White Diamond Pendant
Courtesy
of Giulians
Jewellers. www.giulians.com
Colour
Colour is compared using letters D, E, F, G and so on. D is the whitest and rarest colour and as the letters advance the colour becomes a more tinted white. Visually it is important to note that under most lighting conditions even G appears very white to the eye, so you may find that a H or I coloured diamond suits your taste and budget. Ask your jeweller to show you diamonds side by side so that you can see the difference for yourself.
Illustration
5: White Diamond rings.
Courtesy of
Mondial
Neuman Jewellers.
www.mondial.com.au
Clarity
Clarity relates to markings that naturally occur within the diamond. The grading system starts at FL for flawless, to IF internally flawless, VVS very very slightly included, VS very slightly included, SI slightly included, and I included (also called pique). Diamonds are graded for clarity under 10X magnification. Most people cannot see flaws in a round brilliant cut diamond with the naked eye until the grading reaches SI2, I1 and below. The flaws may be black or clear coloured. The inclusions make each diamond unique, and are caused by small traces of non-crystallised carbon. Carbon is the element from which diamonds are formed.
Diamonds are graded under controlled conditions, with very white light and surrounds, with a comparative set of grading diamonds. As you will be viewing the diamond in a variety of different lighting conditions during daily life, not in a grading laboratory, you do not necessarily need a D coloured diamond to possess a beautiful white gem. Most jewellers would agree that an FVS1 diamond is a very beautiful gem for an engagement ring. Many jewellers also consider a G-H SI1-2 a gem worthy of celebrating an engagement, and providing a lifetime of enjoyment.
Keep in mind that certification is important, however you are ultimately purchasing a diamond, not a certificate. Be guided also by your own detailed observation of the diamond with the assistance of your trusted jeweller. Two gems with the same grading are still two different gems, and if one is less expensive than the other there is often difference in the quality. Particularly if you are purchasing Si2 or below, pay attention to where the flaws occur in the diamond. Certificates often provide a diagram of where the flaws occur and their characteristics. A flaw in the centre is far more noticeable than one on the edge. A flaw near the edge may even be covered by the final setting.
Illustration 6: A jeweller’s 10X loupe or magnifier
Cut
Cut refers firstly to the overall shape of the diamond. Secondarily and most importantly, cut refers to the proportion of the cut. For certified round brilliant cut diamonds the cut is graded in terms of its cut and finish; polish and symmetry. If a diamond is not well cut then it will not have the same beauty and brilliance as a well cut stone.
The cut scale for a round brilliant cut diamond (for GIA graded diamonds) has 5 grades: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. So for example if you hear a diamond being referred to as triple excellent, then it means that it has been rated as excellent in its cut, polish and symmetry. Also until recently only GIA had a rating of 'excellent' for the cut, and HRD's best grade was 'very good', this has now been changed and HRD's grading goes up to 'excellent' also. For a diamond that is not round brilliant cut, then there is no grade given for cut, only for polish and symmetry.
Regarding the overall shape of the cut, there are several different shaped cuts of diamond that are relatively widely available in a range of sizes, for example round brilliant, princess, marquise, pear, oval, heart, radiant and emerald cut. Also there are dozens more unusual and less available cuts like kite shape, shield cut, and trilliant. Some design houses have even created their own branded cuts of diamond.
Fluorescence
Fluorescence of a diamond is tested under ultraviolet light. If a diamond is fluorescent it glows blue or more rarely another colour under ultraviolet light. The more fluorescent a diamond is generally the less valuable it is. Sometimes fluorescence make no difference visually to the diamond, sometimes it can make the diamond appear whiter than its actual colour grade, and in a very small percentage of cases it may cause your diamond to appear cloudy or oily in bright daylight. So if you have found a highly fluorescent diamond that you like, and that suits your budget, ensure that your jeweller enables you to view it in a wide range of lighting conditions before purchasing it.
Antique Diamonds
If you purchase an antique diamond ring, the diamond will almost certainly not be certified. This is because at the time the ring was made, today's grading system did not exist. Also the antique diamond may differ considerably from diamonds you have seen in new jewellery. Diamond cutting techniques were not as advanced and accurate as they are today, so often antique diamonds aren't perfectly cut to a point. This means that the facets don't perfectly converge on one point, instead there is a little flat section where the point should be. This leaves what is called an 'open culet' which differs from today's well cut diamonds that have a 'pointed culet'. Often when viewing an antique diamond from the top, a little circle is visible in the centre of the stone, this is because of the open culet.
In addition to this, there are several antique styles of diamond cut that have fewer facets than today's brilliant cut diamonds. Thus antique diamonds often appear less bright and sparkly than contemporary ones. When enjoying a piece of antique jewellery, it is best to appreciate its character and uniqueness, as the technical qualities of the diamonds within it will generally not be the same as those cut today.
Illustration 7: Side view of diamonds showing the culet
Illustration 8: A round brilliant cut diamond
Illustration 9 A diamond with an ‘open culet’.
Look at the centre of the stone.
The difference between a Certificate and a Valuation
At this point I also wish to point out the difference between a Certificate and a Valuation or Appraisal. A certificate is a document from a grading laboratory which specifies the characteristics of a particular gem (a diamond, sapphire, ruby or other gem). The certificate is for verification of genuineness, and for classification of quality.
A Valuation or Appraisal is often supplied by your jeweller when you purchase a piece of jewellery. The valuation is for the entire jewellery piece, and specifies metals used and weights and characteristics of gems in the piece. Degrees of detail vary greatly in valuations from jeweller to jeweller, and an image of the piece may or may not be included. Valuations may be done in-house by your jeweller, or by an independent jewellery valuer. The valuation also specifies the date and the current value for the purpose stated, for example 'Valuation for Insurance Purposes'. Depending on your insurer often jewellery up to approximately $5000 does not require a valuation in order for it to be insured. In this case the receipt for the purchase is often sufficient.
Illustration
10: White Diamond Earrings.
Courtesy of
Giulians
Jewellers. www.giulians.com
Illustration 11:Diamond grading chart showing the 4 ‘C’s
Illustration 12: Examples of Diamond Shapes
'Laser-Drilled' and 'Fracture-Filled' Diamonds
These are two ways of treating diamonds to visibly reduce inclusions. In the case of laser-drilled diamonds, a very fine hole is made in the diamond to enable the inclusion to be vaporised. In the case of fracture-filled diamonds a hole is also drilled and a foreign substance is used to fill the tiny hole. Fracture-filling can present problems when a jeweller cleans your jewellery or does repair work. Heat from soldering or vibration from an ultrasonic (jewellery-cleaning) machine can disturb the material used in the filling. So fracture-filling is often not permanent. GIA and most other grading laboratories will not certify a fracture-filled diamond.
Personally I dislike the idea of both of these type of treatments, however some buyers like the combination of a cheaper price and the reasonable overall appearance of these diamonds.
HPHT Diamonds
HPHT is another method of treating diamonds: it stands for 'High Pressure High Temperature'.
The technique can be used in some cases to alter the colour of diamonds to desirable fancy colours like greens, oranges, yellows, light pink and blue. In other cases diamonds that are brownish in colour can be converted to a colourless hue. HPHT is a permanent treatment and
results in a cheaper diamond than a completely natural diamond of the same colour. Most HPHT diamonds are above 0.50ct in size. It must be disclosed if a diamond is HPHT, and additionally if the diamond has a GIA report, the words 'HPHT annealed' or 'Artificially Irradiated' will appear.
Cultured Diamonds
Cultured diamonds are man-made diamonds which have the same chemical and visual properties as a mined diamond. Detailed testing is needed to differentiate a cultured diamond from a natural diamond. It must be disclosed if a diamond is man-made. Cultured diamonds above 0.25ct often are certified and laser inscribed by the diamond manufacturer. If the diamond is GIA certified or certified by another grading laboratory, then it will be specified that the diamond is laboratory-grown.
Diamond Irradiation
Diamond irradiation is a treatment that can process a diamond to achieve fancy colours of blue, yellow, green, orange and red. This process is stable and usually permanent. However sometimes irradiated diamonds, especially green hues, can change colour if heated with a jeweller's torch, for example during jewellery repair. Many black diamonds are irradiated to enhance the evenness of their colour.
Coated Diamonds
With a similar aim to irradiation, the intention of this treatment is to achieve rare colours. Unlike irradiation, however, coatings are not considered permanent. They can be damaged by abrasives or even by the jewellery polishing process which uses a polishing wheel. Some colours can even be affected by bleach.
How do I know the Certificate matches the Diamond I am being shown?
Firstly here I would say that you need to be shopping with a reputable seller. It is a serious fraudulent offence to falsely pass off a diamond with a certificate that is not for the stone in question.
Secondly, many diamonds have been laser inscribed with a unique number that appears on the certificate. The laser inscription appears on the girdle of the diamond (see the diagram provided : illustration 11, for the location of the girdle of the stone). You will need magnification in order to see the inscription as it is extremely small. Depending on your eyesight a 10X jeweller's loupe (magnifier, shown in illustration 6) is usually sufficient to enable viewing the inscription.
When your jeweller sets the diamond set into a piece of jewellery, ask them to ensure that the inscription is kept visible if the design of the setting permits. If the setting is a 'claw' or 'prong' set style this is possible. If your desired setting is a 'bezel' set then the entire edge (girdle) of the diamond will be covered.
As well as the laser inscription, each diamond has inclusions which are as unique as a fingerprint. The higher the clarity of the diamond, the more difficult these will be to see. Again a 10X loupe is a necessary tool. GIA and HRD diamond certificates have a diagram of where the inclusions occur, and the nature of their appearance, so this again is a way to link the certificate with the diamond.
Small Diamonds
Small diamonds, especially diamonds around 0.05ct and under, are often graded in parcels. This is because if someone had to study every single diamond in detail this would add a very large amount to the cost of the gems. Some pieces of jewellery can be set with hundreds of 0.01ct diamonds. Depending on your jeweller the smaller diamonds may for instance be graded G-H SI (so the colour ranges between G-H and the clarity ranges between SI1 and SI2), or F-G VS (colour from F to G and clarity ranging from VS1 to VS2). It is usual for there to be a little range like this.
Illustration 13: A design for an elaborate pendant featuring many small diamonds.
Diamond Hardness and Durability
Diamonds are very hard and resistant to everyday wear, which makes them an excellent choice of gem for jewellery. White diamonds have a hardness of 10 and pink diamonds have a hardness of 10.5 (on Moh's scale of hardness). Despite their hardness, diamonds are not indestructible. Diamonds have a property called 'cleavage' which means that the diamond can be split along its internal grain. For example, if you drop a diamond on a tiled floor or other hard surface they can chip or cleave. Diamonds can also chip or scratch other diamonds, so store each piece of jewellery separately: don't put everything into one pouch or box.
Jewellery Quality
Until now in this guide I have been focussing on the quality of the diamonds that will be going into your piece of jewellery. It's great to focus on quality material, but also we need to look at the overall jewellery design and construction. A major and integral part of any jewellery purchase is the design and quality of the jewellery itself. To draw an analogy, even if you have the finest silk in the world for a wedding dress, the end result is not going to be stunning if it isn't skilfully sewn into a dress that suits you.
There are two main ways to purchase a piece of jewellery, the first being buying the piece already made and the second is having it custom made. Furthermore there are different ways that the jewellery can be made. The finest and highest quality jewellery is painstakingly hand made by a qualified jeweller who expertly shapes each detail of the precious metal. For example, the claws or prongs of the metal are individually soldered in place, and metal for the band of a ring is rolled and formed into shape.
A very widely used type of jewellery production is casting. Casting is much faster than handmade jewellery to produce, so it can bring labour costs down for the jeweller, and can also reduce the price for you. It allows jewellery companies to create a design once and then to precisely replicate the design again and again. The disadvantage of cast jewellery in terms of wear can be that the jewellery often dents more easily than a handmade piece. A casting is less dense than a handmade piece of jewellery. If a casting is of a particularly poor quality then little marks and tiny holes may be evident on the surface of the metal. This can occur because casting is done by pouring molten metal into a mould, and if temperatures or conditions aren't perfect then little bubbles may form, creating a 'Swiss cheese' like effect. However with advances in technology, casting quality has overall improved greatly. Also some jewellery designs aren't suited to being hand made, particularly large sculptural forms which are more achievable using the casting process.