Smart Guide Italy
Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples
Published by Smart Guides
Smashwords Edition
Copyright 2012 Alexei Cohen
Discover other titles in the Smart Guide series:
Rome and Lazio
Florence and Tuscany
Venice and Veneto
Milan and Lombardy
Naples and Campania
Turin, Piedmont and Aosta Valley
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CONTENTS
Forums, Palatino and Capitolino
Campo Dei Fiori and Piazza Navona
Dear Traveler,
Congratulations! You are following in the footsteps of poets, painters, students, archaeologists, noblemen and women, adventurers and bon vivants who set out to experience a world of which they had little first hand knowledge. In the early days of the 18th century Grand Tour the journey was long and arduous often involved tutors, guides, translators and even chaperons. It was made by steamship and coal burning trains, in horse drawn carriages and occasionally on foot. But although the means of travel have changed the motivation has not. The curiosity to see ancient monuments and behold Renaissance masterpieces remains strong even in our age of hyper-stimulation. The legendary cities of Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples still hold an intense grip on the traveler’s imagination which can only be satisfied by experiencing them in-person using all the senses.
Smart Guide is designed to help you get the most from your stay. It highlights all the major monuments and sights of Grand Tour cities and offers practical advice on where to eat, drink and enjoy Italy. We don't just provide great insight though, with Smart Guide Italy B&B you can also find convenient accommodation. Now you can stay in the comfort of an Italian home, get a unique local perspective and save. You’ll find all the options in the accommodations section of your destination city.
Enjoy the journey!
Alexei Cohen
Series Editor
PLANNING YOUR STAY
The Grand Tour of old included more than four cities. There were many stops along the way but as most travelers arrived from England, Northern Europe and to a lesser degree the United States they generally began in Northern Italy and gradually worked their way down to Rome or even Naples if they wanted to witness the outer limits of civilization. A tour could last months with some travelers remaining in Italy for years collecting exotic objects, capturing their impressions on paper and letting themselves be inspired.
Today not everyone has the luxury of taking a month off from their lives to explore Italy and fortunately transportation has made seeing it all much easier. Still a tour isn’t grand if it’s rushed and a minimum of three or better yet four days should be spent exploring each of the destinations. Ideally you will be able to devote two weeks to the venture and give yourself the necessary time to walk through the cities, see their museums, enjoy their unique customs and visit some of the outlying sights. In Rome that could mean taking an afternoon to visit Ostia Antica and in Naples a full day to wander around Pompeii.
Where you start the tour however is up to you. We’ve started with Rome because it’s the easiest destination to reach and there are many national and low cost carriers that fly there. From the capital high-speed rail service runs up and down the country to Florence and Venice in the north and Naples in the south. Another option would be to fly to Milan, Italy’s second hub, take a train to Venice and then work your way south. You could also rent a car however that eliminates the pleasure of gazing out a train window and admiring Italian landscapes.
Regarding when to go it’s in your best interest to avoid high season when mass tourism is a distraction and the length of lines multiplies exponentially. As well as being very crowded July and August are also very hot and can make walking tortuous. Major holidays such as Christmas and Easter tend to inundate cities with tourists and pilgrims who make finding accommodation more difficult and expensive. Late spring and early autumn are ideal times for a tour. The weather is good, locals are smiling and the rush to see the Sistine Chapel and Michelangelo’s David is still bearable.
What To Bring
The contents of your suitcase depends on the season and length of stay. Beware of overpacking and select comfortable clothing that can easily be mixed and matched. Layers are important in spring and fall when mornings are chilly and temperatures vary throughout the day. A bag with wheels will make getting around airports and to the next hotel easier. Backpacks or handbags are good for storing items you’ll take on daily excursions and should have zippers to dissuade pickpockets. It’s probably best to leave expensive watches at home and travel without any flashy jewelry. A money belt can be useful for storing necessary valuables and cash.
Some formal clothes may be necessary if you plan on any fine dining or clubbing. Italians generally like to dress up and rarely let their fashion guard down. Flipflops and shorts are fine for the beach but the Swiss Guard won’t permit them inside St. Peter’s. Keep in mind knees and shoulders must be covered when entering religious buildings. Sun glasses are essential during the summer especially if you’ll be doing any driving and baseball hats are useful even if they aren’t often worn by Italians.
You’ll probably do more walking in Italy than at home and it’s hazardous for your feet to break in a new pair of shoes on cobblestone streets. Bring at least two comfortable pairs especially if you’ll be hiking. If you’re only off for a week it may be useful to buy sample size shampoo, toothpaste, and soap that will keep weight down and cause less damage if they accidentally open. If you do forget something you won’t have a problem finding it in Italy and pharmacies are especially useful for replacing lost toiletries or picking up aspirin. If you take prescription drugs make sure to bring enough and have a copy of the prescription in case you need a refill.
Most hotels provide hairdryers but if you are staying in a B&B or camping you may want to pack a small one. It should be adaptable to Italy’s 220 voltage. A European plug converter is useful for recharging mp3 players, digital cameras, cellular phones and of course your tablet or e-reader. Adapters can be hard to find in Italy and airports are usually the best place to pick them up. If you’re taking photos the old fashion way stock up on film before you leave as it’s more expensive in Italy. An extra memory card is useful for digital photographers planning on documenting every step of the tour.
Items like binoculars are helpful for observing the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, church facades, and Italian wildlife. Pack a pen if you plan on writing any postcards and a notebook for jotting down impressions of hill towns and memories of Italian lunches. Even if you aren’t an artist try sketching the sights or making souvenir rubbings of the ruins you encounter. A good book will help pass the time on long distance train or bus trips or while waiting your turn at the post office.
You’ll need your passport and a driving license if you plan on renting a car. An international driving permit is not required but it can avoid confusion if you are pulled over. It only costs $15 and is available from any AAA office in the United States and AA office in the UK. Making a copy of vital documents facilitates replacing them should they be lost or stolen. You can also email yourself any important credit card codes or customer service numbers to report stolen cards. Most of all don’t forget to pack your curiosity.
TOP STOPS
Rome/Colosseo
There was only one place to be on a Saturday afternoon in antiquity. Only one place where the bread was free and the spectacle guaranteed. The Colosseo (or Coliseum) was the stage for life and death drama where spectators had a say and affected the course of events with their cheers or jeers. Within these walls gladiators were worshipped like Hollywood stars and tangled with wild animals and each other in epic confrontations.
Rome/Pantheon
After nearly 2,000 years the Pantheon barely has a wrinkle. The dome was the widest masonry span anywhere until the New Orleans Superdome was built in 1961. The immense portico entry columns continue to influence architects and are the inspiration for many public buildings around the world.
Rome/Basilica di San Pietro
Churches don’t get any bigger than Saint Peter’s but that’s only one reason to visit. The others are Bernini’s colonnades and Michelangelo’s 435-foot cupola. The climb to the top isn’t easy but you can catch your breath while admiring the views below.
Rome/Appia Antica
The Queen of roads was built to last and it has. Much of the original paving is still visible minutes from the Circo Massimo where it starts. Along the Appia Antica are remains of power, pleasure, and piety. It now forms the center of a vast park navigable by bus, bike or foot.
Florence/Duomo
Imagine the greatest engineering challenge of the 21st century and you get some idea of what the project managers of Santa Maria del Fiore were facing. Fortunately one man had a solution and the result remains outstanding.
Florence/Baptistery
They don’t make doors like this anymore. They can’t. The know-how has vanished. Nowadays they send satellites into space. Back in the Renaissance they made Baptistery doors.
Venice/Grand Canal
Venice’s main waterway features one ornate palazzo after another. Although you can see parts of the canal from the Ponte degli Scalzi or Rialto bridges, the only way to see it all is on board a vaporetto, water bus that regularly shuttles locals up and down this incredible stretch of Venetian history.
Venice/San Marco
It may be a magnate for tourists and pigeons but Venice’s San Marco neighborhood, with Piazza San Marco at its center, took Napoleon’s breath away for a reason. The Basilica San Marco and Palazzo Doge that line the piazza were built to impress and the Gothic architecture that once housed the city’s rulers remains stunning inside and out.
Naples/Museo Archeologico
The Museo Archeologico is one of the world’s best archeological museums featuring a comprehensive collection of Greco-Roman artifacts. Spend an afternoon exploring the vast collection of gems, mosaics, frescoes, and ancient Egyptian artifacts.
Naples/Pompeii
Pompeii is one of Italy’s most visited attractions. The site however is vast and it’s easy to get intimate with history here. Make sure to save some time to view the beautiful frescoes in the Villa dei Misteri.
Rome isn't a single city. It's many cities in one and walking the cobblestone streets of the historic center is like entering a time machine where ancient ruins mix with Middle Age neighborhoods, and Renaissance piazzas flirt with Baroque fountains. From the terraces of Villa Borghese the collage of domes and bell towers that have been constructed over the centuries seems infinite. There are over 300 churches none of which were built in a day. Diving into this maze of history can be daunting and the secret is not to try to see it all or even pretend that you can.
The city's two and half million residents seem unfazed by the beauty. They're too busy slaloming through traffic or enjoying an afternoon espresso to notice the Colosseo or Fontana di Trevi. What matters is a good meal and that trattoria on the Via Appia that serves the best cacia pepe (cheese and pepper pasta) in town. Small talk revolves around food rather than the weather which is generally sunny. November is the only exception and a profitable month for immigrants selling umbrellas outside subway stations. Even rain doesn't slow the mopeds down and Piazza Venezia remains hazardous to pedestrians 365 days a year. Clear blue skies return in time for Christmas when shoppers huddle around department store windows along the Corso and super chic boutiques of Via Condotti.
Globalization hasn't put a dent in Rome's age old routines. Shops close at one o'clock, the Pope blesses pilgrims in St. Peters square on Sundays at eleven a.m., and the daily market in Campo dei Fiori is still going strong. Artichokes appear in Spring, peaches in Summer, and grapes in Autumn. The wrinkled faces behind the stalls say more with their hands than they could ever say with words. Thumb pressed to forefinger and index means what are you doing? It doesn't take long to learn their sign language and order pizza or a cappuccino with a single gesture.
Italy's capital and largest city is laid back compared to Milan where finance and fashion are king. There's always time to enjoy an aperitivo after work before facing the evening rush hour. With only two subway lines congestion is guaranteed but work on a third and fourth line are underway and will eventually speed up getting to the stadium in time to see Rome's football teams in action. Half of all the graffitti on city walls is sprayed by fans denigrating their rivals. Romans are more interested in getting a good night's sleep than staying up all night and restaurants outnumber bars or clubs. The best entertainment is sitting in a piazza gazing at the architecture and trying to guess what century your in.
It's easy to focus on Rome and forget there is a region outside of the city. Although Lazio is often overlooked that doesn't mean there’s nothing to see. Both nature and culture compete for attention and provide the key to understanding Rome. For it's in Northern Lazio that the Etruscans reigned while Rome was still a backwater. The tombs of Cerveteri offer insight into this civilization, which was in many ways ahead of its time. The volcanic lakes glimpsed on the approach towards Leonardo Da Vinci airport are the sight of idyllic towns and provide a pleasant break from the pace of the capital. Further south are some of the areas cleanest beaches and a small archipelago off the coast that is a good introduction to Italy’s many islands.
History
Rome didn't start out as the eternal city. It started out as a quite place near a river with a few hills. It was an attractive spot for Iron Age settlers searching for food and safety. The first buildings were not the marble and travertine ruins of the Forum but timber huts on the Palatino. Time passed, numbers grew, tribes merged and before anyone knew it the area was thriving.
The first centuries were influenced by the Etruscans who occupied the area of Northern Lazio and ruled the town until 509 b.c. when they were expelled and a Republic was founded. The next 500 years saw the steady growth of the city. One-by-one the peoples of the Italian peninsula were conquered or absorbed before attention was turned overseas. It was during this period that Rome's first roads were built, the Punic Wars were waged and won against Carthage, and Spartacus’ rebellion nearly changed the course of history.
Cesare's assassination in 44 b.c. marked the beginning of a new age and it took 17 years of civil war before his adopted son Augusto eliminated the competition and declared himself emperor of Rome. The Empire increased the city's growth both in territory and splendor. The brick of the Republican age was replaced with marble and the city took on new dimensions. Subsequent emperors used architecture to influence public opinion and insured a legacy, which has survived up to this day.
No empire is eternal however and invading Goths and Vandals put an end to 1,200 years of glory in the 5th century a.d. The centuries that followed marked a drastic decline in population and prestige. Even the Papacy could do little to save the city from feuding families and recurring invasions. The city had to wait until the 16th century a.d. and the ideals of the Renaissance to rediscover itself. Popes and aristocrats began to recognize the city's potential and hired artists and architects to build churches and palaces. It was the beginning of a rebirth, which has continued to the present day.
SIGHTS
Rome isn’t easily divided into neighborhoods. There is no east side or west side, no left bank or right bank with distinct characteristics. Sights are scattered throughout a center where antiquity mixes with Renaissance, Baroque, modern and more. Roman ruins are concentrated in the Fori (Forums) but temples are standing in the Jewish ghetto along the Tiber River and near Piazza Navona. Via del Corso is the main thoroughfare leading to the Tridente, home to the Fontana di Trevi, Piazza di Spagna, as well as the city’s most exclusive boutiques. Above the Spanish Steps is Villa Borghese
from where Rome’s church domes can best be observed. Across the rooftops is St. Peter’s and to the left is Campo dei Fiori that transforms from a market during the day into one of Rome’s liveliest squares at night. From there it’s only a short walk to the narrow medieval streets of Trastevere on the other side of the Tiber. Outside the Aurelian walls that once encircled the city are Via Appia Antica and a glimpse of Roman countryside. The utopian neighborhood of EUR, with its lake and symmetrical buildings, lies to the south while the 2,000-year-old town of Ostia Antica awaits near the sea.
Walking the cobblestone streets of Rome’s historic center is like entering a time machine where ancient ruins combine with Middle Age neighborhoods, and Renaissance piazzas flirt with Baroque fountains. From the terraces of Villa Borghese, the collage of domes and bell towers that have appeared over the centuries seems infinite. Diving
into this maze of historic sights can be daunting and the secret is not to try to see it all or even pretend that you can.
Some of the best activities in Rome can be enjoyed at no cost and don’t require much planning. Tossing coins into the Fontana di Trevi or hanging out on the Spanish Steps are free and can be done 24 hours
a day. There are only a few streets in Rome’s centro storico (historic center) that are actually straight and it’s not uncommon for locals to get lost. That’s actually part of the fun and often more rewarding than struggling to find your location with gps or a map. Signs aren’t that helpful (except to major sights) and there’s always a constant
flow of travelers between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Keeping an eye out for landmarks such as the enormous Vittorio Emanuele monument in the center and the Tiber River that snakes its way through the city are helpful for staying on track.
FORUMS, PALATINO AND CAPITOLINO
The Forum is where it all happened. For nearly one thousand years this narrow stretch of former swamp and the adjacent hills was the center of the Western world. Here in the basilicas, temples, and stadiums deals were truck, senates convened, masses met, and triumphs displayed. Where to start is a trick question but an overview of the entire sight is a good beginning. From the Capitolino the entire Forum stretches out before you like a postcard from history that never ceases to astound. Everywhere are hints of splendor and power, the physical reminders of a civilization that has had a lasting impact.
The main route into the Forum is the Via Sacra from which the Arco di Settimio Severo, the Curia, the Tempio di Venere, and more recent churches, are visible. For centuries the Forum was covered by earth and it was only in the 17th century that Popes and archeologists began to uncover the area in search of antiquity much of which is now preserved within the Museo Capitolino.
At the beginning of the Via Sacra is the Colosseo, another good starting point for exploring the area. Along the Via dei Fori Imperiali, which cuts the Forum in two, are the Imperial Forums built by a succession of emperors in the hope of preserving their names for posterity. They succeeded and the remains of Trajan’s Markets and Column are testimony to Roman ambition.
Anyone who was anyone in antiquity lived on the nearby Palatino hill. It was a short walk from the Forum and provided a prime view of the Circo Massimo where chariot races were regularly held. This is where emperors slept starting with Augusto who was born on the hill and where legend has it a she-wolf suckled Romolo and Remo, the founders of the city.
Colosseo
Anfiteatro Flavio, better known as the Colosseo or Colosseum (Piazza del Colosseo, tel. 06/774-0091, Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-6:15 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.-1 p.m., €9 combined with Palatino) was ancient Rome’s largest amphitheater and where Romans came to be entertained. It is as impressive today as it must have been when it was inaugurated in a.d. 80 with 100 consecutive days of festivities. Ironically, Flavio died before his stadium was completed and his son Tito used the opening ceremonies as a way to improve his sagging popularity. Within its arches over 50,000 citizens regularly flocked to witness the entertainment of the day. Remarkably it took only eight years from conception to completion and has survived regular pillaging by generations of builders looking for a convenient source of stone. Its steady restoration began in the 19th century when pioneer archeologists and the Catholic Church began to recognize its historical significance. It was only in 1875 for instance that the underground service passages were discovered.
Today the Colosseo teems with visitors and those hoping to make a euro off the masses. It costs €5 to pose with one of the modern-day gladiators circling the area and slightly more for a guided tour. Lines to see the interior which, served as a cow pasture in the Middle Ages and once housed a barbershop, are long. Roma Pass (€25) allows quick access as well as transport and discounts to other museums. It's worth making early morning and evening visits when crowds thin and the stadium’s travertine surface takes on different tones.
The Coloseo can be reached quickly via the Metro B stop of the same name but makes more of an impression when approached from a distance along Via dei Fori Imperiali.
Three Arches
Whenever a consul, general or emperor obtained a significant victory it was customary to celebrate a triumph. These could last weeks and were often accompanied by vows to build temples, libraries, or forums. Some edifices such as columns and arches also served as propaganda to remind citizens of an emperor’s prowess. The Arco di Constantino (Between Via di San Gregorio and Piazza del Colosseo) commemorates a victory over rival Maxentius at the Ponte Milvio in 312 b.c. and incorporates sculptures plundered from other monuments. It spanned the Via Triumphalis where military processions once passed and is now protected from overeager sightseers by an iron fence. Proximity to the Colosseo makes it appear small but stand close up and its imposing stature becomes apparent.
Two other arches remain standing in the Forum. The Arco di Tito (Via Sacra, tel. 06/699-0110) was built by the Roman Senate to honor victories over the Jews. If you scan the sculptured relief carefully you’ll spot the menorah and other spoils Tito brought back from Jerusalem. The Arco di Settimio Severo (Via Sacra) was built to celebrate Emporer Severo’s 10th year in power. Above it there once rested a chariot pulled by four bronze horses. It’s in excellent condition and provides a welcome bit of shade on hot summer days.
Foro Romano
Foro Romano (Roman Forum) (Via dei Fori Imperiali, tel. 06/3996-7700, daily 9 a.m.-1 hour before sunset, €12) was the center of ancient Rome and the place where all roads led to. It lies on both sides of the Via dei Fori Imperiali in the shadow of the Colosseo. The area is flat and can best be observed from the Palatino and Capitolino hills nearby. The highest concentration of Rome’s archeological treasures are located here and there are several entrances to the sight.
This was the Manhattan of the ancient world. It began as a chaotic mix of food stalls, temples, and civic buildings, and was gradually replaced by high-rise basilicas and monuments under the Empire. Subsequent leaders did their best to out-do-themselves in a constant series of renovation and building projects. As land was scarce they were forced to lay their foundations in the area now known as the Fori Imperiali (Imperial Forum). Cesare, Augusto, Traiano, and Constantino all immortalized themselves here.
What remains may look like a marble junkyard but all it takes is a little imagination to recreate the magnificence which once existed. If you want to see a scaled-down model of the entire ancient city visit Museo della Civilta Romana (EUR, Piazza G. Agnelli 10, tel. 06/592-6135, www.museociviltaromana.it, Tues.-Sun. 9am-2pm, €6.50). You can also watch a 5D reconstruction of the forum at the Time Elevator Cinema (Via Santissimi Apostoli 20, tel. 06/9774-6243, daily 10:30am-7:30pm, €12).
The Curia is where the Roman Senate once met and lies at the northwestern edge of the Roman Forum. It’s a faithful reconstruction of the building begun by Cesare after a fire destroyed its predecessor and was completed by his adopted son in a.d. 29. The replica is based on Diocleziano’s plans and although the original bronze doors were moved to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano the marble has remained and illustrates daily life during Traiano’s dynasty. It’s a good place to see what the Forum was like in its heyday and many visitors miss the mosaics that are under their feet.
Cesare revolutionized the Forum, which had become cramped and overcrowded. First he had Cicerone (Cicero) purchase land for a small fortune then on the battlefield of Pharsalus in 48 b.c. he vowed to build the Tempio di Venere. What was initially intended as a simple addition soon laid the pattern for the Fori Imperiali which are across the street from the Curia.
Foro Augusto (Forum of Augustus) is adjacent to Cesare’s and was built to mark the defeat of his stepfather’s assassins Bruto and Cassio. The centerpiece is a temple dedicated to Mars the Avenger of which a short flight of stairs and four Corinthian columns are still visible. Nearby is the high wall he built to protect the forum from densely packed neighborhoods nearby and the ever-present menace of fire. The area is not open to the public and can only be seen from the Via dei Fori Imperiali and a small footbridge that runs behind the sight.
After successful military campaigns in Dacia Emperor Traiano (Trajan) used his vast booty to build a forum next to the others. It was the last and greatest built designed by a Syrian architect who dispersed 30 million cubic feet of soil to make way for a vast square, semicircular market, the largest basilica ever built in ancient Rome, and Greek and Latin libraries. This forum became a center of political and administrative action where laws were adopted and funds distributed.
Collona Traiano (Trajan’s Column) tells the story of the emperor’s two campaigns in Dacia from crossing the Danube to submission of the local chieftains and includes over 60 portraits of the emperor himself. The statue of Traiano at the top however was removed by Pope Sixtus V and replaced with St. Peter. The column also marks the height of the hill, which was removed, to make way for Traiano’s Markets (Trajan’s Markets) and has survived nearly completely intact with the exception of the Emperor’s gold funeral urn. If you look closely you’ll see the small slits that allow light to enter the spiral staircase inside.
The Visitor Center (tel. 06/679-7702, Tues.-Sun. 9:30am-6:30pm) in front of the church on Via dei Fori Imperiali organizes guided tours of the forum and provides audioguides. There’s also a tourist information point out front where you can pick up a map and Roma Pass.
Palatino
The Paltino or Palatine (daily 9 a.m.-1 hour before sunset, €9) is one of Rome’s seven hills and far less crowded than the Forum below. It’s dominated by the remains of palaces where Rome’s elite lived and covered with wildflowers during Spring. Some cats also call it home and from the top there are views of the Forum on one side and the Circus Maximus on the other.
One of the most interesting houses is Casa di Livia in the center of the sight where Augusto and his wife lived. It is less grand than you might expect of Rome’s first emperor and is one of the best preserved dwellings on the Palatino. Time has raised the ground level above the house, which is reached by a short flight of steps. The original mosaic paving and religiously themed frescoes provide some insight on Roman decorating tastes. Many of the same colors and patterns seen here are still used throughout the city.
Nearby is the stadium Domiziano built inside his palace. The actual use of this particular model is unknown and may have served as a garden, riding track, or outdoor gym. In the 6th century the Ostrogothic king, Theodoric thought it might make a good place to run foot races and added the circular enclosure at the southern end of the complex. There’s enough room to organize an impromtu 50 yard dash of your own but the bathes adjacent to the track have been out of order for a long time.
The Palatino can be reached from within the Foro Romano or Via San Gregorio beneath the arches of the aqueduct that fed the bathes. The latter entrance is usually far less crowded.
Capitolino
The Capitolino is the smallest and most revered of Rome’s seven hills. It is here that the Temple of Juno once stood and where Roman coins were minted. Piazza del Campidoglio with its geometric marble paving designed by Michelangelo and Renaissance era palazzos is a sharp contrast to the ruins of the Forum. The three buildings that make up the square are Palazzo Nuovo, Conservatorio, and Senatorio, which contain the Museo Capitolino (Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 06/3996-7800, daily 9 a.m.-8 p.m., www.museicapitolini.org, €12) and city hall.
The facade is also the work of Michelangelo and the museum houses a collection of classical sculptures where you can see exactly what the Romans looked like as well as the original bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius (the one outside in the square is a copy). Other highlights include the Hall of Philosophers, Mosaic of the Doves, and Dying Gaul.
The stairs to the right of Palazzo Nuovo (Marcus Aurelius is pointing to it) lead to the Vittoriano (Piazza Venezia) monument that was inaugurated in 1925 to honor the first king of the unified Italian state. Locals refer to it as the the wedding cake and it’s worth visiting more for the view rather than any historic reason. There’s also a pleasant bar with an outdoor terrace in the back that’s a good place to take a breather.
AVENTINO AND TESTACCIO
Aventino is Rome’s southernmost hill and its location near the Tiber attracted foreign merchants who were not permitted to live within Rome’s sacred boundary. Today it is a refuge for birds and a quite residential neighborhood with a wonderful orange garden and famous keyhole view of the Vatican.
The original working class grit is preserved in Testaccio where generations of Romans have lived and their unique dialect prevails. The central market is stage to a constant flow of chatter between butchers, greengrocers, fishmongers, and enthusiastic clients. Browsing the artichokes in springtime is a particularly Roman past-time. Monte Testaccio, the small hill nearby, is an ancient dumping ground around which a ring of bars, clubs, and restaurants are now clustered.
Circo Massimo
Sport was a part of Rome nearly from the beginning and horse racing at the Circo Massimo has been attributed to the city’s founders. Today it is only a shadow of its former self, stripped of its travertine and marble and yet it’s easy to imagine 250,000 frenetic ancient Romans or one million modern ones celebrating their heroes (the Italian soccer team came here after winning the 2006 World Cup).
Circo Massimo should be walked. Follow in the path of the chariots, which were released from gates at the flat end near the Tiber and completed seven laps around the spina (central spine) in the middle. This long, low mound was once topped with extravagant obelisks and statues, which have since been moved to other parts of the city.
Charioteers competed Ben-Hur style and it was all over in under ten minutes, the reds, greens, blacks, or whites chalked up yet another victory. From here you can see where the late emperors sat comfortably on the Palatino hill distracted by Christian uprisings or trouble in Dacia (Modern-day Romania). The sight is open 24 hours a day and is worth returning to if possible. The tower at the far end is a medieval addition where the only original remains can be seen as well as a distant view of the Vatican. This part of the circus is currently being restored. A smaller, better preserved track lies just off the Via Appia Antica and is worth a visit.
Terme di Caracalla
Hygiene was an important aspect of Roman culture and citizens visited public baths frequently. Hundreds of these were located throughout the city and could be used free of charge. Terme di Caracalla (Via delle Terme di Caracalla, tel. 06/3996-7700, daily 9 a.m.-6 p.m., €6) was completed by the emporer of the same name in a.d. 217 and many of the walls and elaborate mosaics are in good condition. Caracalla could accommodate up to 1,600 bathers who moved between hot, warm, and cold rooms. There were also changing facilities, libraries, and a courtyard for exercising. Guided tours with an archeologist can be arranged on weekend mornings but otherwise the lack of signage leaves a lot up to the imagination. During the summer opera and ballet performances are held here (www.operaroma.it).
Forum Boarium
Before the Foro Romano became the center of the ancient city business was conducted in the Forum Boarium (Piazza della Bocca della Verita). This was where Rome’s first port was located and explains the presence of the Temples of Hercules and Portunus that date from the Republican era. Portunus was the God of rivers and ports, and the rectangular shaped structure shows the influence of Greek civilization on early Roman architecture. Neither of the temples can be visited however the rose garden in which they stand is a pleasant place to relax for a few moments. Don’t be surprised if a group of Japanese tourists ask you to take their photo in front of the nearby fountain.
Arch of Giano across the street is a four-faced arch erected in honor of Constantino or his successor during the 4th century. The statues of the Gods, which once adorned the 12 niches on either side, have disappeared yet the monument has retained its sense of strength. It marked a busy crossroads where herders brought their cattle to market.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin (Piazza della Bocca della Verita 18, tel. 06/678-1419, daily, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2:30-6 p.m., free) is famous for the ancient drain cover that hangs in the portico and can supposedly distinguish between fact and fiction. There’s usually a long line of people waiting to put their hand into the mouth of truth and many forget to even enter the church.
That’s too bad considering the quality of the mosaics of this 6th century building. What is immediately evident is the simplicity of the design. Ceilings are flat rather than arched (which was cheaper to build) and prayer seems more important than any embellishments. There’s a small souvenir shop in the lobby where books and postcards are available. The entire sight was recently repainted and has remarkably remained graffiti free.
Santa Sabina and Garden
Santa Sabina (Piazza Pietro d’Illaria 1, tel. 06/574-3573, daily 10 a.m.-12 p.m. and 3:30-5:30 p.m.) is the most important church on the Aventino hill. But don’t rush in or you’ll miss the 5th century doors that contain 18 carved panels recounting episodes from the new and old testaments. If the church looks new it’s due to a 20th century restoration which saved the 9th century windows, marble frieze, and pulpit from ruin.
Rome specializes in romantic spots like the Giardino degli Aranci (orange garden) next to the church where couples regularly practice their kissing. One could spend an afternoon here listening to the birds chatting away in the umbrella pines overhead and looking out over the rooftops. The terrace at the far end of the garden provides a view of Trastevere and San Pietro.
Piramide
Although the name Caius Cestio may have faded from memory the Pyramide di Cestio (Piazzale Ostiense) remains. Like the Egyptian models from which it was inspired this pyramid is a monumental tomb and was incorporated into the Aurelian wall. Latin inscriptions indicate the structure was built in 333 days as specified in Cestio’s will. Nearby are the Porta San Paolo, which contains a small museum dedicated to the Via Ostiense, and the Protestant cemetery where all non-Catholic foreigners were once buried. If you enter the cemetery you can get a better look at the pyramid and read the famous epitaph on John Keat’s tomb.
Monte Testaccio
Monte Testaccio (Via Galvani) is a fancy name for an antique dumping ground. This small hill that stands 50 meters high consists primarily of amphorae (clay vases), which were used to carry oil from Spain to the warehouses that once lined the river. Jars were smashed after being emptied and what remains is evidence of early globalization. The area is now a popular nighttime retreat for young Romans who gather around the bars and restauratns that surround the hill.
Rome is not only antiquity, it’s also Trastevere, a medieval neighborhood awash with narrow streets that invite exploration. This side of Rome however hasn't escaped modernity and is often marred by traffic and third-rate graffiti. Even these offenses however cannot remove the overall charm locals have managed to preserve. Unless your hotel is in the area the best approach is over the Ponte Sisto bridge towards Piazza Trilussa where you might begin with a walk along Via del Moro. Follow the smell of baked bread wherever it leads. The restaurants are abundant and choosing one is a unique pleasure.
Ponte Sisto
Ponte Sisto connects the Trastevere neighborhood with the rest of the city. It gets its name from Pope Sixtus IV who opened the bridge in 1474 and financed the endeavor with taxes paid by prostitutes. The Renaissance were boom years for the oldest profession who numbered 6,800 in a city of only 50,000. Flooding destroyed previous bridges on this sight and the remains of the Pons Auerelio were incorporated into the latest version. The round hole in the center serves as a flood alert. If water reaches that level it’s time to head for the hills. On most evenings someone is playing an instrument on the bridge or selling fake Gucci bags.
San Crisogono
San Crisogono (Piazza Sonnino 44, tel. 06/581-8225, Mon-Sat. 7 a.m.-11 a.m. and 4-7 p.m., Sun. 8 a.m.-1 p.m.) is a welcome relief from the traffic on Viale Trastevere. It was built over a house where early Christians once worshipped. The church mixes Baroque with Romanesque and recycled Roman marble for its floors. To see the state of excavations which have been ongoing since 1907 descend the steps near the sacristy at the far left end of the church. A small donation will get the lights turned on and reveal segments of the ancient church dating from the 8th century. You are likely to see as many parishioners as visitors coming and going throughout the day.
Santa Cecilia
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (Piazza di Santa Cecilia, tel. 06/589-9289, daily 9 a.m.-1 p.m., 2-7 p.m., €2) was commissioned by Pope Pascal I in 821 in honor of the martyred saint who resisted her torturers through song and was eventually beheaded. The church includes a convent, bell tower, cloister, and the immense Last Judgment fresco by Pietro Cavallini located in the choir of the nuns. It is one of the finest examples of medieval painting in existence.
Santa Maria in Trastevere
Santa Maria in Trastevere (Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, daily 7:30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4-7 p.m.) dates back to a dispute early Christians had with tavern keepers in the area. The matter reached the attention of the emperor Alexander Severus who sided with the new religious order preferring faith over revelry. The present structure followed a familiar development cycle being built, rebuilt, and remodeled several times since the 3rd century. Its present form dates from Pope Innocent II in 1140. It is notable for the external mosaics, which were added in the 13th and 14th centuries and represent the Virgin Mary and Child. The mosaics continue inside with a series illustrating the life of the Virgin Mary. The piazza in front of the church is the center of the neigborhood and the fountain in the middle is a popular meeting place. There are several outdoor cafes from where the church and street life can be admired.
Tempietto
The Tempietto (Piazza San Pietro in Montorio, tel. 06/581-3940, daily 8 a.m.-12 p.m., 4-6 p.m.) was designed by Bramante between 1502-1507 and commemorates the sight where Saint Peter was martyred. It set a new standard for proportions and became a model for countless other buildings in the 16th century. Gian Lorenzo Bernini built the entrance of the crypt over one hundred years later. Inside stands a statue of the saint dating from the same period. The sight hosts frequent exhibitions and events.
Palazzo Corsini
Before becoming the home of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica Palazzo Corsini (Via della Lungara 10, tel. 06/6880-2323, Tues.-Fri. 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-1 p.m., €6) was the home of cardinals and noblemen including Cardinal Neri Corsini for which it is named. Over the course of its long history it has hosted Michelangelo, Erasmus, and Queen Christina of Sweden. Today the gallery is filled with a first-rate collection of 17th and 18th century Italian art as well as a smattering of Rubens and Van Dykes. The elaborate frescoed interiors are almost as interesting as the art hanging on the walls.
Villa Farnesina
When banker Agostino Chigi decided to build himself a villa he didn’t just want any villa. He wanted to set the standard. Villa Farnesina (Via della Lungara 230, tel. 06/6802-7538, Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-1 p.m., €5) did just that and the building’s deceptively simple design of a central block with two projecting wings is enhanced through the paintings and imagination of its creator Baldassarre Peruzzi who worked under Bramante and would later become Head of Work at San Pietro. His Salone delle Prospettive creates the illusion of looking out on 16th century Rome and alters depending on the viewer’s perspective. Raffaello also had a hand in the decoration and the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche are his creations. Unfortunately photography is stricly prohibited but you can take pictures out in the formal gardens and book tours during the summer months.
CAMPO DEI FIORI AND PIAZZA NAVONA
The streets in these neighborhoods flanking the Tiber are home to some of Rome’s finest Renaissance and Baroque buildings. Both are vibrant and the market in Campo dei Fiori is better than going to any theater. You can watch the banter from the steps of the statue in the center and return in the evening when bars and restaurants keep the area animated until late.
Isola Tiberina
Whoever said the more things change the more they stay the same was probably thinking of Rome and the Isola Tiberina in particular. This small island of volcanic rock played a crucial roll in putting Rome on the map. It’s here that Aesculapius, the God of medicine was worshipped, where sick Romans waited to be healed outside his temple, and where a hospital was founded in 1548 that still operates today. The island itself was altered to resemble a ship in the 1st century a.d., the outlines of which are still visible. Ponte Fabrico bridge that connects the island to the Jewish Ghetto is the oldest in the city. The man playing saxaphone is a regular and is oblivous to the pregnat women on their way to the hospital.
Ghetto
Jews have been living in Rome for over two thousand years and have occupied the area opposite Isola Tiberina for nearly half that time. As religious hatred ebbed and flowed so did their fortunes. One century they were limited to selling fabrics, clothing, and second-hand iron and the next they found themselves cramped behind high walls under the watchful eyes of the Swiss Guard. The character of the neighborhood and especially its inhabitants renown for being more Roman than the Romans has survived. Via Del Portico di Ottavia is the heart of the Ghetto and the place to give Kosher Roman a try. The street has recently been recobbled and the benches are occupied by old-timers. Grab a seat if you can and enjoy the show.
Tempio Maggiore synagogue (Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 06/6840-0661, www.museoebraico.roma.it) down the block has Art Nouveau written all over it. There’s a museum inside which features sacred objects and is the starting point for guided tours of the neighborhood in English or Italian that last one-hour (Associazione Culturale Le Cinque Scuole, tel. 06/558-0971, €3-7). The carabinieri police on duty are a relic from a terrorist attack in 1982.
Via della Reginella in the opposite direction became part of the neighborhood in 1823 when Pope Leo XIII allowed the Ghetto to be expanded. The air is medieval and the courtyards all around provide a clue of what the area once felt like. Further ahead is Piazza Mattei and the recently restored Fontana delle Tartarughe. Have a seat at the bar on the corner and enjoy the graceful fountain modified and remodified over the decades.
Crypta Balbi (Via delle Botteghe Oscure, Tues.-Sun 9 a.m.-7 p.m., tel. 06/3996-7700, €3-7) nearby is on a street named for the medieval craftsmen who once transformed pieces of repossessed marble into lime used for construction. The museum provides first-hand artifacts illustrating how the city has reinvented itself over the ages and helps sort out one era from the next.
Area Sacra dell'Argentina
Area Sacra dell'Argentina (Largo Argentina) is a large rectangular sight in which four temples known simply as A, B, C, and D were discovered in the 1920s. Near temples C and D are the remains of Pompeii’s Curia where the Senate convened and Cesare was murdered. Today the Area Sacra can only be visited by appointment and is the home of a cat refuge. A panel on one side provides details about the columns and stairs still standing and illustrates how the sight once looked.
Pantheon
Civilizations establish reputations on buildings like the Pantheon (Piazza della Rotonda, tel. 06/6830-0230, daily 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m., free) and the fact that this one is still standing is further proof that the Romans knew a thing or two about construction. This former temple first incarnation dates from 27 b.c. when it was dedicated to Jupiter, Mars, and Venus. Three Gods meant pulling out all the stops and emperor Adriano completely rebuilt the structure less than 100 years later. The 16 monolithic columns his architects used in the portico entrance are 12 meters high and dwarf the steady stream of visitors. The darkest column was recently traced to a hard labor camp the Roman’s operated in Egypt. The building was consecrated as a church in a.d. 663 and suffered only slight ravaging. Bronze tiles on the roof were removed as were bronze sheeting from the portico beams melted down to make canons for the Castello Sant’Angelo.
Years as a fortress, poultry market and bell towers, added and later demolished, did not severely damage the building. The 7-meter thick walls are one of the keys to its longevity and they continue to support the largest dome ever built during antiquity. The only light enters through an oculus 3-meters in diameter, which is embedded in the vault. Most of the colored marble is original as is Adriano’s inscription on the frieze outside. It’s no wonder Raffaello and two Italian kings are buried here.
Campo dei Fiori
If you close your eyes and imagine a field of flowers you’ll have an idea of what Campo dei Fiori (Piazza Campo dei Fiori) was like in the 14th century. Now add cardinals, noblemen, and fishmongers who all animated the open area facing Pompeii’s theater and the place starts to come alive. Today a flower and food market still thrives and a lively crowd gathers throughout the day and dangerously close to dawn. The hooded statue in the center is Giordano Bruno who was burnt here at the stake for being a little too ahead of the times.
Although only a short walk away Piazza Farnese has little in common with its neighbor. Here order reigns imposed by the palazzo built by the Farnese family and considered one of the finest in Rome. If you’re wondering where the missing half of the Colosseo ended up then Palazzo Farnese is partly to blame. The large fountains in the piazza on the other hand were commandeered from the baths of Caracalla. The palazzo itself has benefited from the designs of Michelangelo who continued the project when the original architect died. He is responsible for the cornice, central balcony, and the third floor of the courtyard. The palazzo has belonged to the French government since 1635 and now serves as an embassy. Visits are free and may be arranged through the French consulate (Via Giulia 251, tel. 06/686-011).
Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona is not your typical square. In fact it’s not square at all but has inherited an oblong shape from the time of Domiziano’s stadium. It can be entered by one of four streets and is entirely free of any automotive threats. Which means fountains, churches, musicians and street artists can be observed leisurely. Bernini’s Fontana di Quattro Fiumi in the center of the piazza is the most intricate of the waterworks and was installed in 1651. Four mythical figures representing the Nile, Ganges, Danube and Rio de la Plata support a Roman obelisk that once stood in Circo di Massenzio on the Via Appia Antica.
The church in front of the fountain is Sant’Agnese in Agone (Piazza Navona, tel. 06/6920-5401). According to legend Agnese was stripped naked in an attempt to make her renounce her faith. The hair which miraculously grew to cover her is depicted in a marble relief near the alter. Boromini completed a restructuring of the church in 1657, which gave it a unique concave appearance topped by twin bell towers. The underground chambers can be reached through a passage on the right wall and lead to ruins of the stadium, a mosaic floor from the same period and medieval frescoes from the churches first incarnation.
Palazzo Altemps
The 15th century Palazzo Altemps (Piazza Sant’Appollinare 4, tel. 06/397-4990, Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-10 p.m. and Sun. 9 a.m.-2 p.m., €7) is home of the Museo Nazionale Romano and houses Egyptian, Greek and predominantly Roman sculptures. The most note worthy is Galata Suicida (Galata's Suicide) commissioned by Cesare in the first century b.c. to commemorate his conquest of Gaul.
The Via del Governo Vecchio is named after the palazzo, which once housed the headquarters of the papal government. The street is lined with buildings from the 15th and 16th centuries including number 123 were it is believed Bramante once lived.
Chiesa Nuova
Chiesa Nuova(Piazza della Chiesa Nuova, tel. 06/687-5289, daily 7:30 a.m.-12 p.m. and 4:30-7 p.m.) may not look new but it did replace a medieval church on the same sight and the name stuck ever since it was completed in 1599. The idea for the church came from San Filippo Neri who was an active participant in the Counter Reformation and who had his wealthy followers wear rags and labor on the construction of the church. It took 20 years to complete the frescoes, which decorate the nave, dome, and apse. Three paintings by Rubens are present near the alter.