LIVING IN FRANCE MADE SIMPLE
By
Tanja Bulatovic
Published by Tanja Bulatovic on Smashwords
Copyright 2012 Tanja Bulatovic
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Smashwords Edition, License Notes
This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you're reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Samshwords.com and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.
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Disclaimer: I have taken every effort to provide accurate information in this guide. As far as I am aware the information I have included is correct as of writing; however, the reader takes full responsibility for verifying all information. The content presented here is provided “AS IS” without warranty of any kind. I don’t profess to provide all the answers here. There is no such thing as a definitive way of doing things; a one-size-fits-all method for every individual. This guide is a mix of my personal experience, opinion and practical information. I decline all responsibility regarding the use of information in this guide. The reader takes full responsibility for any damages, harm, or fees incurred from using the information presented in this guide. Any links mentioned within this book are for educational and informational purposes only. They are not affiliate links. I do not stand to profit financially from any of the links listed in this guide.
For Fabrice
“C’est a partir de toi que j’ai dit oui au monde.”
Paul Eluard
Visas, Cartes De Sejours/Residency Permits and Work Permits
How to become a French citizen
How to Integrate (even if you don’t feel like it)
Educating your child in France
Opening a bank account in France
Checklist for documents needed
Chapter 3, Food, Love and Wine
Surviving France as a vegetarian
Dating in France (a tale of everyday seduction)
Chapter 4, Your Own Home in France
Your real estate dream come true
Step-by-step guide to buying property in France
France regions and real estate prices overview (including links to latest listings)
Finding short and long-term rentals
About a year ago I wrote an article for EscapeArtist entitled ‘Living in Marseille’. In a nutshell, the plot went something like this:
"Heartbroken and hopeless 40-year old girl/woman meets and falls in love with a Frenchman who then entices her to follow him (from Australia) to France. They get married. New chapter. New life."
It was the first article I’d ever written, and consequently the first article I’ve ever had published. Much to my surprise, the warm feedback I received (thank you!) was so overwhelming it inspired me to write something more substantial.
I’m an actor and a self-taught writer. An ordinary person who put her heart on the table with nothing to lose - wanting to convince people that if she could move to a new country and start a new life, so could they.
Writing that first article felt like a culmination of everything that had happened to me up until that point. Like a denouemont or end of a big chapter and at the same time a door to a new beginning.
And though I’m not yet sure where this new beginning will lead me, for now I’m happy to be walking you through my experience. Grateful for the opportunity to share my story in the hope of inspiring and contributing to the ‘collective unconscious’ that seems to be floating around right now.
You know what I mean, right?
It’s like a universal heartbeat...telling us that some kind of change is in the air.
Can you feel it?
If you can’t, you need to listen to your deepest self. The future has never felt more murky, unclear and unsafe. Maybe in the past but certainly not in my lifetime. Until now. You see now, there’s something else at stake. We are no longer simply fantasizing about moving to the other side of the planet on a whim. This is something else entirely. It’s about survival.
Can we honestly afford to wait for more global shocks or a personal crisis to change our lives in a dramatic way? We need to look at our core values. We need to make a new life for our families and ourselves. And we need to do it NOW. No more climate changes and terrorist attacks required as a prerequisite. The time is NOW, not somewhere in the future.
As far as the future is concerned, what can we be certain of?
Only this: Along with disaster, destruction and catastrophe comes opportunity to change things for the better. Not change things back to how they where before, but a new kind of better.
Now, more than ever, I ache for a small patch of land, some simple living, nature and a life that revolves around a vegetable garden. It seems I’m not the only one. Yet for many people living elsewhere in the world (Australia, US, UK to name a few), that dream has become unrealistic. Out of reach.
If nothing else, I’m here to tell you the dream is still achievable in France.
These here are the fragments of a story of how I came to be free. And even though it’s my story it could just as easily be yours. But in these pages rests more than simply my story; you will find a compilation and guide consisting of information that’s taken me almost 4 years to accumulate mostly the hard way.
That being said, if you are longing for a new kind of freedom, take my hand. As some wise person once said, there’s no time like the present. And there’s no country in the world that comes closer to understanding the beauty of the present moment.
No country like France.
Making it Happen
“One day your life
will flash before your eyes. Make sure it’s worth
watching.”
Unknown
Once upon a time, in Australia, I stopped at a flower booth to buy some blossoms for a friend. There was an old man inside the booth. His name was ‘Basil’. As he carefully wrapped the roses for me, we started chatting.
“And what do you do for a living young lady?”
“Oh, I don’t know”, I said, “I guess I’ve done a lot of different stuff, but mostly I like to move around”.
“Yes”, he replied as he steadily tied the bow…
“We travel the world looking for who we are but we come home to find out”.
I’ve never forgotten that conversation. Not only did Basil’s comment resonate; it left me with a giant question.
Where the hell is home?
Some people find it easy to answer that question, but for others like me, it’s been a life-long quest. Basil was obviously talking about a sense of inner peace one reaches when one is content. Of the ultimate home being ones interior landscape. And he’s right, off course, but the exterior is just as important, don’t you think?
If the exterior isn’t supporting you, how can you possible feel ready to excavate the interior? You probably know what I mean if you’ve ever asked yourself the “who ordered this life” question. Surely you have, otherwise you wouldn’t be reading up on living in France. But your motivation probably stems from a number of factors…
Change is good.
You’re not happy.
Deep down you know you’re only sticking around out of habit; it’s what you know.
You’re struggling financially, locked into wage-slavery and looking for a way out.
You know that a life that’s ‘good enough’ isn’t necessarily good enough for you.
Because you know that the right country, the right location will buy you some time.
Because not living the life you want to live is stressful.
Because you know that happiness comes through experiences, not things.
Because you want your whole life to resemble a work of art.
Because you know that simplifying your life (more on that later) gives you the opportunity to live your life, gives you your life back.
Because you’ve got big concerns about your future in today’s world.
Because you have a crush on all things French.
Because you want adventure.
Because you want to buy a home in France.
You just got a divorce.
You’re in the throws of mid-life crisis.
Because you’ve got a shitty view.
Over the years, I have felt most of the above without being able to articulate exactly what I was feeling. So if this is an ‘Ah Ha!’ moment for you, then we’re on the same page. Good news is that dreaming is free. And so are nice views; but in order to see clearly, you need to position yourself right. How? By getting out of your own way first. And when you do, you will see that ‘living the dream’ in France (or anywhere else for that matter) really is well and truly within your reach.
While searching for answers, truth, nirvana, call it what you will, I’ve read hundreds of books, bought out of sheer desperation and frustration because they ‘made a promise’ of a better life (plus they sounded super exciting in the sales pitch). Needless to say I signed up for many a dream, and devoured every piece of information. And sure enough, the books more or less fulfilled what they set out to, but in the end, I always felt a little disappointed.
Why? I guess I’d expected something different. Something more than practical facts - a free plane ticket to the Seychelles stashed inside the book probably wouldn’t have gone astray (pre eBooks, this could have been possible:)
You see I didn’t want just the facts. I wanted to read that someone like me was already doing it. But most of all, I wanted to be inspired, and to know the dream was actually possible. Having said that, I also wanted the writer to take off the mask and give me something more than the stereotypical images. Not an airbrushed version. The real thing. Warts and all.
By the time I finished reading the books, I usually felt so overwhelmed by the big picture and all that was required to immigrate to Timbuktu, re-invent myself and/or live a transnational life, I lost my nerve to follow through.
Looking back, I guess when it came down to it, I had ‘decided’ that I couldn’t do it. Seemingly, there was always some minor detail sabotaging my efforts, which at the time felt too hopeless to even contemplate:
Wrong passport, no money, no real career, debts = not a chance in hell.
Back then, I had no idea how wrong I was.
My driving purpose in building this guide was to create something inspirational, fun and useful. A mix of practical information and every day observations topped with some heart, soul and a little dream dust to ignite your imagination. I know. I know. No easy task, but I promise I did my best.
My deepest wish is this: That when you read these words, you’ll be nourished and inspired to act or to at least think about things in a different way. The reason 99.9 percent of people don’t make the leap is fear. But you already know that. I know a bit about that too.
And don’t worry, I’m not about to stand on the soapbox and tell you to ‘face your fears’. It’s a term too well trodden - most self-growth talk makes me nauseous and the sheer fact that you bought my book was no accident.
But I will say this: Most of us were taught to make safe choices instead of reaching for rich life experiences. It’s only a matter of re-adjusting and getting better at being courageous and grabbing life by the balls.
When nothing else works, occasionally I remind myself of this: This play called 'life'; it’s not a rehearsal before you get to perform in the real thing. This is it. Unfortunately most of us are living the rehearsal because we’re in denial. And for many, the ‘sleepwalk-through’, as it stands, is a bloody mess.
Why?
The stage and costumes aren’t ready
The lighting guy hasn’t arrived yet
We’ve forgotten our lines (which weren’t all that interesting anyway).
Now if we could only find the director to tell us what to do!
“We
are always getting ready to live but never living.”
Ralph
Waldo Emerson
Ralph knew it! And so do you, which is why you’re here. Therefore, if your life at the moment looks anything like mine used to…
Zero money, no career, wrong passport, debts and broken heart infested by cockroaches, you’ve come to the right place.
I’m living proof that things can change for the better. That, pending on a few simple choices, decisions and changes, an ordinary person can live an extraordinary life in the country of their dreams.
Don’t listen to the killjoys. If you really want to live it France it can be done. Listening to other people inevitably means nothing will ever happen. Unquestionably, it’s a lot easier to do nothing. To stay at home, glued to the television for fear of another natural or man-made disaster. But if the world truly is coming to an end, I for one don’t want to watch it in slow motion on TV. I’m guessing neither do you.
Before we get into the thick of things I'd like to say 'thank you'. Thanks for reading. For enabling me to paint you my version of the picture. I don’t profess to be the best painter, though my lack of skill is compensated by my enthusiasm for setting you free.
You in fact, are nothing but freedom. And sure, France is only but one spot in which to thrive, but I’m here to tell you; it’s a pretty damn good one.
“Man
is free at the moment he wishes to be”
Voltaire
To this day, I’m not sure whether it was destiny or a sort of subconscious longing that brought me to France. But for as long as I can remember, I’ve had a frivolous fascination for all things French.
For instance, when I was 16 years old, I noticed a black and white photographic print in a shop window that stopped me in my tracks. It was, I thought at the time, the most romantic image I’d ever seen.
The print - by French photographer Robert Doisneau is entitled “Kiss, by the Hotel de Ville”. You know it, right? It’s the one of the couple kissing in the streets of Paris. It was and probably still is one of his best-known works. So as soon as I saved up the rather hefty $150, I bought it and stuck it on my bedroom wall.
Just in case you have no idea what I’m talking about (it happens) click on the link below: http://www.robertdoisneau.com/largehotelkiss.htm
In addition to the black and white print, I was infatuated with French cinema, French actors and actresses, French music, food, and fashion. I listened endlessly, as if possessed, to Edith Piaf, Yves Montand, Jaques Brel and Charles Aznavour. Although I didn’t have a clue about what they were singing, I suppose the music must have fulfilled something in me.
What happened after that?
Oh yeah, that’s right…when I grew up, destiny placed an unsuspecting Frenchman in my path. His name was Fabrice, and just as soon as he stepped out of the black and white print, I married him. Surprised?
And here we are.
Admittedly, since moving to France, life hasn’t all been chocolates and roses. I’ve had my fair share of hairy moments and reservations about the place. And when I think about it, the endless red tape, bureaucracy, backwardness, and lack of customer-service are enough to send most people running in the opposite direction.
But the key word here is ‘think’, which is something I don’t do anymore. If you can learn to switch off the thinking part, then that my friends, pretty much takes care of any worries, angst or stress one might be having about the ‘system’ around these parts.
Still, one has to take the good with the bad. Right?
Here then, is some of the good: Even though the entire world seems to be falling apart, France is still (as of writing) doing well. There are no tsunamis, earthquakes and/or governments slaughtering its own people. Relatively speaking, France continues to thrive economically while other European countries have fallen through the cracks.
Why?
Because La France is largely self-sufficient - a leading agricultural producer in Western Europe and a major exporter of wheat and dairy products.
As a result, living here is still affordable. Cheap as chips in fact when compared to countries like Australia or the UK. Real estate prices in particular. Evidently for many of us, most our time, energy and money are tied up in acquiring an oversized and overpriced roof over our heads, which we then maintain and pay off until we die. Insanity? Right on! So why do we do it?
Because a surprising number of us are brainwashed into thinking that trading out lives for an oversized and overpriced roof is ‘normal’. What some call normal I call pervasive wage-slavery, but here’s where I give you my best French shrug and move on…
Case in point. As much as I adore Australia (my home for almost 30 years), living there is no longer affordable for the average person. Not only have real estate prices gone through the roof, there’s a shortage in rental accommodation - with people having to cue for hours in order to ‘bid’ - auction style - for the most ordinary rental properties. Needless to say, the highest bid wins.
It’s not just real estate prices. The general cost of living is sky high. My mother, who’s retired and lives by herself says she’s lucky to spend less than $200 per week on food. She’s no fancy eater. Mainly fruits, grains, veggies with the occasional morsel of meat. If she didn’t own her tiny apartment, I’d hate to think how on earth she would manage. A standard one-bedroom, 40m2 apartment in the city of Melbourne rents at around $350 per week, plus bills. Fine. Though one needs to consider that the average Australian pension for a single person is something like $667 per fortnight!
Is it any wonder then, that so many baby boomers are becoming expats and bailing out of the ‘good retirees’ game altogether? Why shouldn’t they, when their hard-earned retirement fund or pension stretches much further on foreign soil.
If you are retired and you haven’t planned your exit strategy yet, you have options:
For instance, you could...
Move to a cheaper part of the world (i.e. France).
Be a perpetual traveler without ever settling anywhere.
Buy a sailing boat.
Live on a houseboat and cruise the canals.
Chill out in a cabin in the woods and go fishing.
Cruise around in a caravan or VW Kombi.
Anything is possible. And it’s never too late.
As I said before, the number one reason people stay put is that funny old bugger called fear. How do I know this? Because I keep getting the same questions from readers asking:
Is it safe to live in Marseille?
What about the crime?
The bad reputation?
The drugs?
The racism?
And sure, I tell them…if you look for it, you’ll find bad stuff here like anywhere else. I don’t look for it. And I don’t hang out in dives and bars with seedy criminals and street gangs (at least not anymore:). If you’re not into hanging out in unwholesome places and mixing it up with the local mafia, chances are you’ll be ok wherever you decide to go.
On that account, can you honestly say you feel 100 percent safe where you live right now?
This part of the world has its share of problems, that’s for sure, but in general it is civilized, tolerant, and social, which is why (as of writing), France still tops the list of top 25 best places to live in the world, for the 5th year in a row, followed by Australia and Switzerland in third place.
And no…it’s not all about the cheese, baguette, frog’s legs, silly hats, curly moustaches, nuclear bomb testers or the sound of people speaking through their nose.
There’s much, much more…
A bon vivant lifestyle – the French live life to the full.
Short working hours (not to mention 11 public holidays per year).
2-hour lunch breaks.
A laid back and slower pace of life (if I was any more relaxed, I’d be dead).
Community values.
Great climate (depending on where you are).
Romantic Paris - with its galleries, unique cafés and atmosphere is one of the most unforgettably beautiful cities on earth.
The charm of rural France and its glorious, wild-herb covered landscape.
The warm weather laziness of the South.
Lavender-scented Provence.
The food (superb restaurants and fresh, mouth watering market produce).
Endless feasts, fairs and festivals.
The wine (frighteningly good and way too affordable).
An unrivalled top class health care system.
Cultural diversity.
A stunningly beautiful language.
Good property bargains.
Location: getting in and out of France is easy and offers a variety of options, including planes (31 regional airports in total), trains, automobiles, boats and ferries.
Little discrimination between young and old. This was a major thing I noticed; when you go to a bar or café in Australia for instance there are places inhabited by the old and others by the young. This is totally irrelevant here. Old and young mix freely.
“France
is the most civilized country in the world and doesn’t care who
knows it.”
John
Gunther
La Belle Vie
The first thing one notices about France and the French is their civilized approach to living. A slower pace of life highlighted by different sets of priorities. People don’t rush around, angst-ridden and stressed. Sure they have to work to pay the bills like everyone else, but they don’t live to work. And one gets the impression they don’t need to work to live well.
When one hears stories about the bad customer service in France, I think this is why. Simply speaking, the ‘bad’ customer service revolves around the de-stressed French mind-set. Next time you wait 30 minutes to be served in a café, don’t take it personally. Rest assured the waiter isn’t wasting a moment’s thought on you.
Beauté
When we think of France it’s easy to forget the country’s vast diversity. From the wild Pyrenees and snow covered Alps…the rugged expanses of sea to the sexy French Riviera. From endless pastures and charming fairytale villages to Paris, the city of lights, the country really does offer an all-round attractive escape package.
Saisons - Each season, a self-contained wonder...
Autumn (my favorite), when the country is ablaze with rust colored leaves. When they harvest the grape and numerous seasonal festivals abound.
Winter, when the tourists are gone and you get to hibernate in cosy sweaters, drinking red wine by the roaring fire (or electric heater:).
Spring with its red, yellow and lavender colored wildflower blossoms. Trees covered in pink and white. Bright yellow mimosas veiling Provence like a soft, scented carpet.
Summer. Long, lazy meals spread across rustic tables brimming with local produce. Goodies one picks up at the fresh outdoor markets bustling with people…flower stalls….and men playing boules nearby in the late-afternoon light - that famous magic light that’s too good not to paint, and precisely the reason why artists have flocked here for centuries.
As if you need more convincing, but hey, just in case...
Inspiration
How about the masses of olive tree groves, a typical landscape staple in the rugged landscape of Provence, immortalized by Cezanne and Van Gogh…the soft scent of wild, ripe figs emanating from the edge of the road, tempting you to pluck them straight from the tree. The sound of cicadas softly chirping in the background - a free, daily concerto.
Liberté
People are alive here; they look at one another, they make eye contact, they appreciate the opposite sex and are not afraid to let it be known. Don’t take offence. Even if you stride down the street with your partner, people will look. Men and women alike will check each other out, regardless of age, size, shape, package or color. Minor details are irrelevant here. When it comes to admiring the species of the opposite sex, there is no such thing as discrimination or discretion.
This can be a little intimidating at first but you’ll soon get used to it. Perhaps you’ll even learn to appreciate it, especially if you are of a certain age. Let’s face it; in most other parts of the world, any woman past the age of 30 is invisible. Know what I mean?
Not so in France…
Here, people are in touch with their bodies. They are comfortable in their own skin. This can be good and bad. Good because it’s refreshing and bad as it makes you feel like you’re having a permanent ‘out of your own body’ experience and that you might never find your way back (unless perhaps a French person shows you the way:)
If you’re not used to it, experiencing this kind of attention can make you feel like a first time visitor - not only to the country but also to yourself. It can feel threatening. Not because the French are a stunningly beautiful race. Au contraire. But what they lack in stature they make up in confidence, which is why we’re intrigued.
“Our
life is frittered away by detail…simplify, simplify.”
Henry
David Thoreau
Simplicité
One often hears of the French having an appreciation for the ‘finer things in life’. Though I’m not sure ‘finer’ is on the mark. From where I stand, it looks more like an awareness of the ‘simple’ things. The every day.
Improvised picnics in parks, smooching with one’s sweetheart by the Seine…romantic strolls along cobbled streets, an aperitif on the harbour… open-air street markets, fresh flowers, fruits and vegetables, seafood.
Then there are the national institutions, the cafés or nerve centers from which everything lingers. Here’s where you eat, drink, read, write, sit and dream or have impromptu chats with strangers with whom you flirt, philosophize or talk garbage. Who cares, it’s probably one and the same. Before his death, Jean-Paul Sartre, the French existentialist and philosopher was famously quoted as saying that everything he’s ever written was a pile of crap.
La Bouffe
In France, the major drawing cards have always been the food, the wine, and off course the cheese. Living here means eating well and taking your time to enjoy the food. Taking pleasure in good food is in fact a ritual and a celebration of life. Since moving to this country, my whole attitude towards food has changed. For one, I now have a downright appreciation for all things fresh. I’ve turned into a bit of a foodie and a ‘slow foodie’ at that. No longer eating for the sake of eating, I eat for the experience. To savor the tastes. I have fallen (hopelessly) in love with all of it, from the shopping to the chopping to the serving and the eating.
In addition, I’ve started taking photos of the food we eat, simple meals; nothing complicated and created a food/lifestyle blog nobody reads. No matter; I did it for my own amusement - as a way of recording tiny moments. A life-stream of sorts. Maybe in a few years I’ll look back and remember the actual circumstances, events, perhaps how I was feeling at the time. Here it is. The tiny blog nobody ever reads http://www.bellyheartsoul.com
Art
Another good reason as to why people flock here are the arts. Theatre and film are revered and French cinema, also known as “The 7th Art” is taken pretty seriously. The films are character/story driven (as opposed to heavy on special effects).
Performing arts aside, there’s the fashion, Haute Couture, the ballet, the opera, the architecture and museums such as the Musee du Louvre in Paris, one of the largest and most visited museums in the world. In Paris alone, lovers of art have around 40 choices to while away the afternoon. Once you leave Paris, there are 100 or so more to choose from throughout the rest of France.
The Louvre alone contains 35 000 works of art including the enigmatic Mona Lisa and graceful sculpture of Venus de Milo. Collections include paintings, sculpture, drawings and prints. There is simply no way you can visit the entire museum in one day. If you’re a serious art lover, you’ll need at least a few days to explore this place, which is housed under a glass pyramid in the former Royal Palace.
If 19th century French art is your passion, then the Musee d’Orsay is the place. Focusing on paintings, drawings and sculpture, the collections include impressionism, post-impressionism, realism and art nouveau – all housed in a turn-of-the-century Beaux–Arts classical style railroad station.
Here’s a link to all the museums in France (by location). You’ll need to click on the individual region, then the department:
http://www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_museums_in_France
Architecture
We live in the 2nd arrondissement of Marseille. Not the best area in town (although it’s improving), but it’s central and we have a great view across 1800’s Haussmann-style buildings framed by the Mediterranean Sea.
The buildings have typical balcony façades and floor to ceiling windows surrounded by thick walls cut from stone.
They are of the same height and roofs are standardized which gives them that well-known prestigious appearance. I never get bored when I gaze through the window or stroll down the street because the ancient architecture ads character, ambience and inspiration to my daily life. Every day I notice something new. A little something I’d never spied before. Like the intricate detail of a wrought iron balustrade. A tiny side street in the Old City. A carefully cultivated patch of green and color on someone’s balcony. Antique, wooden hand-carved entrance doors. (I take photos of doors because I’m drawn to the idea of portals being magical thresholds where two worlds meet. The public and the private).
Passion
If I had to think of one word to describe France and the French alike, that word would be ‘passionate’. The French know how to live and what’s needed (and not needed) in order to live this way. To them, it’s all about quality of life and the little things, which ultimately (for us) are the major points of seduction.
Plainly, it is precisely those ‘little things’ that attract 80 million visitors to France each year. They come, hoping that the French joie de vivre will somehow rub off on them. And sure, one gets a taste of it while on vacation, but in order to experience the real thing, mes amis, you’ll have to live here.
I’m imagining that right about now, you’re probably ready to know exactly how to do that.
Let us begin by climbing the biggest mountain.
Visas, Cartes De Sejours/Residency Permits and Work Permits
A lot of people want to come to France and hopefully stay for obvious reasons. It’s not easy, France is concerned about immigration numbers, cracking down on things and making the dream a little less accessible.
Notice I didn’t say impossible?
Reason being, many people come here from poorer countries. They enter the country legally and illegally putting a strain on social services. Simply put, high unemployment means the government prefers to give its jobs to French citizens.
That being said, let’s take a look at how you can stay and work in France.
Visas
Reading about your visa options on the Internet is enough to make your head spin. It’s difficult to know where to start, what to believe and where to turn. Official government websites can be even more confusing. Some are in English, some not. Rest assured, I know how you feel, and I will attempt to simplify the maze as best I can.
To begin with, there are two types of Visas:
The tourist visa (short-stay: less than 3 months)
Visa de long séjour (long-stay: over 3 months)
Note: You must apply for the visa de long sejour (long-stay visa) at the French Embassy in your country of residence.
The Tourist Visa
Most visitors are granted an automatic 3 month short-stay (tourist) visa upon entering France. Some countries need to apply for their visas from home so make sure you check with authorities before you go.
In theory, as a visitor, you’re expected to adhere to the ‘Schengen-rule’, which means you need to leave the Schengen area, which currently comprises 27 European countries after a period of 90 days. For an updated list of Schengen countries, click below:
http://www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schengen_Area
In other words, you’re not allowed to stay for more than 3 months per 6 months. Who knew? Like I said ‘in theory’, once the 3 months is up, you are supposed to leave and wait/stay 3 months in a non-EU country before you can re-enter.
That’s a lot of theory for most, which is why some people use the tourist visa to bypass French bureaucracy. They move to France without the long-term visa, pop across the border every few months to get their passport stamped, work under the table and/or live on savings.
Due to lax security at borders, one can sometimes get away with it and plenty of people do but it’s absolutely illegal, not to mention incredibly stressful, and you’ll never be able to do things like open a bank account, get access to health benefits and such. Plus if you get caught you will jeopardize any future possibility of living in France legitimately. So be careful.
I discovered the ‘Schengen rule’ by accident when browsing the Internet for some long-stay information. At that stage, I had no idea that I was in fact overstaying my official welcome. Not knowing what to do, we headed to the local prefecture to ask about our options.
The woman behind the counter asked if I was working in France. I said no. She then told me there was no problem with my staying, unless I was using the system so to speak. Granted she was busy on the day, and I was wearing an extremely cute hat, but what she told me was absolutely the wrong information; I only wish I got her on tape to prove it.
Like I said, I’m certainly not advocating that people stay illegally - and in the long run that’s not the answer. I’m saying don’t stress too much over the details. Fabrice used to tell me this time and time again. Back then, I didn’t believe him, but I have to admit he was right (for once:)
Visa Categories
Before you apply for your cartes de séjour (residency permit), you need to know that there are many different categories:
Visiteur: for people who have no intention of finding work and have enough money to support themselves for one year and/or for people who have PACSed and can’t prove they’ve been living together for at least a year (see below for details)
Salarié: for work contracts (one year or more)
Travailleur Temporaire: if you have a short-term work contract for France (up to one year)
Membre de famille: for family members of someone who already has a carte de séjour
Vie Privée et Familiale: for people married to an EU citizen (see below for more details)
Assistant Lecteur/ Visiteur: for English teaching assistants and/or university lecturers
Etudiant: for students (see below for more details)
Scientifique: for scientific researchers and university professors
Profession artistique et culturelle: for artists and writers
Union Européenne: for EU passport holders
Compétences et talents: Skills and talents card (see below for details) - valid for 3 years (renewable)
Carté de Résident / Resident Permit – valid 10 years (renewable)
Retraité / Retirement – valid 10 years (renewable)
Students (Etudiants)
If you’d like to study in France, you apply and the school accepts you, plus you have the necessary funds (around $600 per month) the school can help you to obtain the visa. With a student visa you can apply for a temporary work permit which allows you to work for a limited amount of hours per week/month. A lot of students tend to find work as an au pair or in a café/bar/restaurant.
Vie Privée Et Familiale CDS
Since January 1st, 2007, foreigners who receive a vie privée et familiale CDS (for people married to a French and/or EU citizen) have to sign a contract “Contrat d’accueil et d’intégration” and attend a ‘welcome to France’ orientation. Having said that, some prefectures require it and some don’t. Yours truly had to do it :) The deal included 2 days of French history lessons (with free lunch), a French test (short, friendly chat) and the option of 200-400 hours of free French lessons.
Applying For Your Carte de Sejour (Residency Permit)
Once you have your long-stay visa, you’ll need to apply for a carte de séjour, (your year-long residency permit) as soon as you arrive in France. When applying, you’ll need to supply the following:
Your visa number.
Date of entry in France (or Schengen area).
Your address in France.
A copy of passport ID pages and stamp you received upon entry to France.
Your passport.
Proof of accommodation in France.
A passport photo.
Payment for processing (in the form of stamps purchased at a Tabac/ newsagent).
Fees are €55 for students, €70 for salarié, and €340 for visitors/conjoint de français. Fees vary and change, so make sure to check the form for details.
You then have to attend a complete medical examination (by a doctor at the OFII), before you can obtain the highly prized card, which can take 4 -8 weeks to process. While you wait for the card, you will receive an “attestation” that you have applied, after which your will receive a temporary card called the récépissé de demande de carte de séjour (valid for 3 months), which is valid until you get the real carte de sejour/ residency permit.
Note: As aforementioned, you will need to apply for the visa de long sejour (long-stay-visa) from your country of residence, before you come to France. Don’t do what I did and think you can apply for the CDS via France. You can’t. Not even if you’re married to a French citizen (cost me a fortune in plane tickets to find out). Also, allow a minimum of 6 months of pre move ‘to-do’s’. A year is probably best.
PACS (ing)
“In France, a pacte civil de solidarité (English: "civil pact of solidarity") commonly known as a PACS /paks/ (or PaCS, and now also pacse, is a form of civil union between two adults (same-sex or opposite-sex) for organizing their joint life. ...” (source wikipedia)
Applying for the Carté de Sejour Visiteur (due to being PACsed)
You are eligible for the CDS Visiteur:
If you have enough money to support your stay in France.
If you are PACSed with your partner and can’t prove that you’ve been living together for at least a year (before you PACSed).
Required documents for the Visiteur CDS (due to being PACsed):
Passport with visa.
Your French partner’s ID card.
Birth certificate, no more than 3 months old.
Certified French translation of birth certificate.
3 or 4 passport photos (check whether they want black & white or color as it varies).
Justificatif de domicile (proof of residence in France), such as latest bills with both partners’ names on the bill.
A record of your partner’s income (3 months worth of pay slips).
PACS certificate (less than 3 months old).
PACS contract.
Compétences et Talents CDS
The Compétences et Talents / Skills and Talents card is a (3 year, renewable) residency card - a fairly new loophole for eligible applicants who can - or are seen as contributing to France’s development in any of the following areas:
Economic
Cultural
Intellectual
Scientific
Athletic
Humanitarian
This could be you if…
You are a university graduate.
A qualified professional.
An investor in an economic project.
An independent professional (artist, author, athlete etc).
A high end executive or senior manager.
Surely you can think of something that fits?
Click below for more details.
http://www.ambafranceus.org/spip.php?article1178
or
http://www.consulfrance-washington.org/spip.php?article519
Carte de Sejour Renewal Process
Ok, so now you’ve got that darned residency card. What happens next?
Each year (for the following 5 years) you need to jump on the renewal process circuit 2-3 months before your card expiry date. Good news is after 5 years, you can apply for a 10-year residency permit or go for citizenship; it’s up to you.
Personally I’m undecided as to whether or not I actually need the citizenship. On the one hand I get exactly the same rights as a resident without being forced to sing ‘La Marseillaise’, the French national anthem during the citizenship ceremony.
On the other hand, if I ever wanted to live/work elsewhere in the EU, a French citizenship/passport would entitle me to do so.
Depending on your personal, work situation and location, the above reapplication process can vary. Paris is different from Marseille for example. What’s more, these things change at the drop of a hat, so always check and confirm with the nearest French Embassy or Consulate.
Some light entertainment…
Here’s what happened when I recently renewed my residency permit…
(Excerpt from my diary)
“My temporary residency card (Récépissé de demande de titre de séjour) was about to expire. I went to immigration this morning asking why I never received a renewal notice. They said they contacted me twice over the past 2 months (via mail) but that I had neglected to respond. Not true, I told them. I'm always home, and never received anything via mail.
Needless to say it was my word against theirs…
If my French were better, I would have defended myself in fine form (after being screamed at by the huffing and puffing, red-faced Amazon behind the glass). I would have ‘let her have it’ with my ‘Serbian viper tongue’, (Fabrice’s loving sentiment whenever I express a hard-nosed opinion :)
Now, I am required to cue on Monday for another 4 hours with paperwork to verify I actually live at this address. No problem but it’s obvious I’m being penalized because of their negligence. This kind of thing happens a lot I’m told - especially when they’re running behind schedule…”
In retrospect, one can only laugh about these things, otherwise nobody in their right mind would live here and be treated in such a manner.
My advice – not if, but when it happens to you:
Take a deep breath, process, accept and get over it.
And remember the following:
When they say it’s in the mail, it’s not.
When they say you’ll receive it by such and such date, you won’t.
When they tell you to wait for the call, don’t wait because the call will never come.
When they say it’s black, assume it’s white.
Always get a second opinion on ‘advice’ given to you by an ‘expert’.
Last but not least, don’t take anything for granted - go and ask what’s going on before the card expires.
Keep in mind you’re already in the country. You’re here legally and if they are not doing their part on time, that’s not your fault. Providing you do it all by the book. As a backup, it’s a good idea to keep a note of dates and when you did XYZ and/or sent off papers to XYZ and/or sent emails to XYZ, and that way you have proof. Proof is good. It means they can’t kick you out. Better still, it means being able to prove that you are in the right and they are in the wrong. Happiness, my friends.